Name: Chicago Bourbon & Barbecue Festival
Start: 2017-09-09T17:00:00+00:00
End: 2017-09-11T03:00:00+00:00
Location: 2000 W Roscoe St

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Whiskey Acres To Release Second Artisan Series BourbonAugust 1, 2017 This Friday August 4th 2017 marks the release of Whiskey Acres Distilling Co’s second edition of their ‘Artisan Series’ Bourbon. According to co-founder Nick Nagele, “The Artisan Series is meant to showcase how much of a differentiator grain can be.” For the first release in the series they replaced the standard yellow dent corn with an heirloom oaxacan green corn. All other grains, proportions, and yeast strain remain the same as their Whiskey Acres Bourbon (75% corn, 15% wheat, 10% malted barley) bottled at 87 proof. I first tasted the Artisan Series “Oaxacan Green” at the 2017 Heartland Spirits Festival and walked away very impressed. It didn’t stray too far from their already enjoyable Bourbon, which in my opinion has some flavor notes we expect to find in younger bourbon but also exhibits a complexity and depth not often found. Nick tells me they sold out of 500 bottles (375ml) in just 3 weekends with no advertising and selling ONLY in the distillery tasting room. Enter the second Artisan Series release. This time they have replaced their standard corn varietal with sweet corn to make the Artisan Series Sweet Corn Bourbon. Once again, all other aspects of this bourbon’s mashbill, yeast, and distillation process remain the same, the sweet corn takes the stage as the defining difference in this limited release. Nick Nagele tells us sweet corn is much different to work with than the corn used in most standard mashbills. For example, they let the sweet corn dry in the field instead of harvesting and drying it later. The bourbon, aged in two 15 gallon barrels and one 25 gallon barrel for just shy of 2 years is mingled and proofed down to 87 before being bottled in 375ml collectors bottles. A total release of just 400 to 500 bottles priced at $29.99 will be sold starting Friday 8/4/17 only at the distillery tasting room until it’s all gone. Tasting Notes -Specs- Proof: 87 Mashbill: 75% sweet corn, 15% wheat, 10% malted barley Age: At least 1 year (though we were told this release is almost 2 years) Bottle size: 375ml Price: $29.99 -Nose- Corn forward with notes of brown sugar, oaky vanilla, and wet wood that quickly turns into subtle baking spices. A few drops of water pulls out more velvety brown sugar. -Palate- A pleasant amount of spice, toasted bread, a hint of ripe red apple, and a buttery sweet finish with some lingering spice. This is a great extension of the Whiskey Acres lineup and shows their commitment to using the grain they grow in interesting new ways. If you like the flavor profile of Whiskey Acres Bourbon then you should enjoy the Artisan Series Sweet Corn. There’s also the collectability factor; we don’t know if or when specific Artisan Series releases will make a return once the distillery sells out. If you’re interested, get to the distillery this weekend, 8/4 & 8/5, for the launch! The complex notes and character found in their bourbon and rye, combined with these experimental releases, is one of the reasons we’re bullish on Whiskey Acres. Today, they produce a solid bourbon and rye for their age bracket of under 2 years that’s enjoyable to drink in its own right. If they continue keeping a watchful eye on quality, which I’m sure they will, and continue their plans of grain experimentation, these whiskeys will get better and better as they mature to the 3 and 4 year marks and beyond. As they move to releasing juice aged longer, and in 53 gallon barrels, their excellent grains and distillation at the hands of head distiller, Rob Wallace, will shine even brighter and more clearly differentiate the quality of their whiskey. If you liked reading about this new release from Whiskey Acres Distilling subscribe to our email list below. You’ll be the first to hear about their next Artisan Series release and get the latest news on their upcoming tasting room expansion! Whiskey Acres was kind enough to provide this sample. Full editorial control of this article remains with Chicago Bourbon. ...
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What Is Wheated Bourbon?July 24, 2017 By law, Bourbon must be made from a mash of at least 51% corn. But what makes up the other 49%? Let’s find out. Bourbon must be made in America from grains. This requirement differs from some foreign whiskies. For example Indian distillers often use fermented molasses in place of grain. But here in the USA any spirit labeled “Whiskey” must be made from a grain mash. Bourbon takes this a step further and requires at least 51% corn in the mashbill. The mashbill is the recipe, or combination of grains, milled and combined as the starting point for Bourbon. Besides corn, the other grains used in a Bourbon mash are called “flavor grains”. Of course corn does impart flavor in Bourbon, and Bourbon can be made from 100% corn. Some distillers, particularly farm distillers, put great stock in the quality of their corn. But just about every distiller uses a few other grains in the process. Traditionally, the other grains used in a Bourbon mash are rye or wheat. These two flavor grains were abundant on the frontier, rye in the colder climates of the north and east, wheat in the midwest states. Rye was first used to make rye whiskey and Bourbon as settlers moved into the eastern seaboard. Later, as these settlers moved west, wheat was adopted as it was more abundant in what are now our midwestern states. Those defining points in American history give us the recipes used by the vast majority of distillers to this day. Why might today’s distiller choose to use rye or wheat in a mashbill? And what’s the difference? Two defining characteristics come into play. The flavor profiles of rye vs wheat and how a distillate made from each grain ages as it interacts with the inside of a charred oak barrel. I often describe the different flavors of rye and wheat by comparing them to the breads made from each grain. Rye bread is a bit sharp, almost spicy, strong, and dark. Bread made from wheat is lighter in weight, color, and flavor with a bit of sweetness. Bourbon made from each grain is often similar in color, flavor, and finish. Whiskey made from rye tends to “age faster” in a barrel compared to its wheated counterpart. We won’t get into organic chemistry here but understand that certain compounds present in rye whiskey tend to interact with certain wood compounds at an accelerated rate. Once a distiller chooses rye or wheat their job isn’t done. Next they have to decide how much corn, rye, and/or wheat they will use. Different amounts of these grains make mashbills unique. Four Roses makes Bourbon from two different rye mashbills. Their “E-Mashbill” 75% corn, 20% rye, and 5% malted barley. And the “B-Mashbill” 60% corn, 35% rye, and 5% malted barley. Each of these mashbills is further combined with 5 different yeast strains to make up the 10 Four Roses recipes used today. Each recipe, proportion of rye to the other grains, and different yeasts, create unique flavors making each of their Bourbons different. Wheat is the grain of choice for Maker’s Mark. They’ve been using wheat in their Bourbon mashbill since production began in 1954 and the first red wax dipped bottle hit shelves in 1958. Founder of Maker’s Mark, Bill Samuels Sr., was inspired to use wheat in his Bourbon by experimenting with bread baking using different grains. Wheat bread proved the most agreeable to Samuels. He also received guidance from another Bourbon legend, Julian Van Winkle. Before Maker’s Mark came into existence; Julian “Pappy” Van Winkle made wheated Bourbons under the brands Old Fitzgerald and W.L. Weller. Two brands still available today, though now under different ownership and distilled at different distilleries. The latest notable entry i’ve tasted to the wheated Bourbon space comes from a producer historically known for their rye whiskey. Redemption Whiskey has just released Redemption Wheated Bourbon, pictured below. This Bourbon is unique in the wheated space with a “high wheat” mashbill of 51% corn, 45% winter wheat, and 4% malted barley. This is the highest wheat content i’ve ever tried in a Bourbon; falling just a few percent this side of being considered a wheat whiskey such as Heaven Hill’s Bernheim Original Wheat Whiskey or their Parker’s Heritage. For comparison, the original Maker’s Mark comes in at just 16% wheat. Aged 4 years and bottled at 96 proof Redemption Wheated Bourbon, Batch No. 001, looks to me like it will hold its own against these incumbents and help pave the way for what one Chicago bar manager told me is now the most asked for category of whiskey in his bar, wheated Bourbon. What if one grain just isn’t enough?! Some distillers use both rye and wheat in the same mashbill or in different mashes they produce. Buffalo Trace Distillery keeps their mashbills a secret and enterprising fans have put together their best estimates. Two mashbills use varying amounts of rye grain while the third uses wheat. Buffalo Trace’s rye mash produces Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Eagle Rare, and Blanton’s to name just a few. While the wheat mashbill puts out the W.L. Weller lineup and the infamous Old Rip and Pappy Van Winkle Bourbons. Earlier this year they released E.H. Taylor Jr., “Four Grain” made with, you guessed it, both rye and wheat (along with corn and malted barley). This 100 proof Bourbon retails for about $70 but you’re more likely to pay upwards of $200 if you can find it. What about other grains? A few adventurous distillers forego rye and wheat, instead using other grains such as quinoa, millet, or oats. Chicago’s KOVAL Distillery makes whiskey from all of those grains. Corsair has their “Oatrage” whiskey. And Jim Beam toyed with a limited release Bourbon using a grain you’ve probably never heard of, Triticale. Corn is the only grain required by law. The other grains in a Bourbon mashbill are completely up to the distiller. The final, and usually smallest, portion of a Bourbon mashbill is malted barley. The barley typically makes up a single digit percentage of the recipe but plays a very important role. It enables the conversion the grains starches into sugar. Yeast added during the fermentation process eats these sugars, turning them into alcohol. While Bourbon utilizes a small amount of barley Scotch, by definition, is made exclusively from it. While wheated Bourbons are a smaller category than rye Bourbons their popularity is growing. As someone who’s first Bourbon was a wheater it holds a special place on my palate. It’s interesting to see some of these higher proof wheated Bourbons coming to market, from Redemption Wheated Bourbon to Maker’s Mark Cask Stregth, and likely others to come. As the Bourbon category as whole continues to grow, us drinkers can expect many exciting varieties vying for a place in our glass. ...
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4 Basic Bourbon Cocktails That Will Make You The Envy Of Your FriendsJuly 14, 2017Here are 4 basic Bourbon cocktails we love that are easy to make at home with minimal ingredients you can always keep on hand. Perfect the proportions of these drinks to impress your guests every time! I don’t pretend to be a bartender, mixologist, or what-have-you. Those men and women behind your favorite bar do an incredible job and deserve our respect, and tips. But sometimes you’ll be at home and in the mood for a Bourbon cocktail. Arm yourself with these simple yet satisfying recipes and you’ll never be left thirsty my friends! The Manhattan The Manhattan is far and away my favorite Bourbon cocktail to make at home. It’s simple, just four ingredients, delicious, and customizable. It keeps Bourbon, or the more traditional rye whiskey, front a center. Serve it “up” in a martini glass or on the rocks. This cocktail is traditionally made with a spicier rye whiskey or high-rye Bourbon. Our home bar is stocked with Bourbon and that’s where we’ll go with The Manhattan. I prefer to make the “Perfect Manhattan” which is made with a 50/50 mix of sweet vermouth and dry vermouth. I always start with the smallest ingredient and work to the largest, a tip I learned many years ago to naturally blend ingredients with minimal stirring/shaking. Here’s our recipe for The “Perfect” Manhattan: Place your ice in a rocks glass. (A large cube or sphere if you have one.) Add a few dashes of bitters. Equal measures of sweet vermouth and dry vermouth. (About ¾ oz total) Add 2 oz Bourbon or Rye, stir. Top with skewered Maraschino Cherries. TIP: Refrigerate Vermouth to maintain its freshness as long as possible. Bitters Replace the traditional Angostura bitters with your favorite bitters. I swap in Angostura Orange or an excellent barrel aged Cherry bitter from Woodford Reserve that we have on the bar. There are a lot of craft bitters out there to explore. Cherries Don’t forget the cherries. Spring for Luxardo Maraschino Cherries if you can. The Matchbox bar in Chicago soaks their cherries in brandy for an extra kick. You can do the same at home! For this Manhattan we’ll use Woodford Reserve for its signature rich and spicy oak-forward flavor profile and respectable 90 proof. The Old Fashioned For the sweeter palate try an Old Fashioned. Just as easy to create as The Manhattan and equally as tasty. Just follow these steps: Place a small lump or cube of sugar in an Old Fashioned glass. Add a few dashes of water, Angostura bitters, 1 Maraschino Cherry, orange slice or peel. Muddle ingredients in the glass with muddler or spoon. Remove orange peel from glass. Add 2 oz Bourbon and ice, stir. Garnish with Maraschino Cherry and orange peel. If you don’t have an orange on-hand try Angostura Orange Bitters which will keep on your bar much longer than fresh fruit. For our Old Fashioned we used the new Redemption Wheated Bourbon. New to the Chicago market this month! Made from a mashbill of 51% corn, 45% winter wheat, and 4% malted barley. Bottled at 96 proof. The mashbill and proof make this a perfectly sippable high wheat Bourbon with a nutty palate and nice warm finish. The Bourbon Bloody Mary Bloody Mary’s can be delicious. Guarantee it by replacing the vodka with Bourbon! Pickup your favorite Bloody Mary mix and all the fixins, check out our recipe below for some tips. Make this Bourbon Bloody Mary for your next brunch: Grab a large pint glass. Add several dashes Worcestershire, hot sauce, and horseradish. 1 oz Stout beer and stir. 2 oz Bourbon. Bloody Mary Mix to 2 inches below top of glass. Add ice to fill glass. Top with a dusting of celery salt and cracked black pepper. Add garnish. (Cheese, salami, olives, bacon, mini cheeseburgers etc.) For this Bloody Mary we’re going with Old Forester 1920 Prohibition Style. The “Whiskey Row” series has quickly become one of our favorite new Bourbon lineups. This Bourbon drinks incredibly well on its own and holds up well in a cocktail with its 115 proof! The Bourbon Neat When all else fails, or if you have a special bottle you refuse to mix, this last one is for you. Pour that Bourbon directly into your glass and drink. Add ice or a bit of water if that’s your thing. We’ve been digging this clear ice-cube tray from Rabbit. Inexpensive, easy to use, and actually does create clear ice that practically disappears in a glass of Bourbon. Pick your favorite Bourbon from the shelf for this drink and let us know what you’re drinking in the comments below! ...
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Bourbon, Sort Of Bourbon, And An Interesting Whiskey From CaliforniaJune 20, 2017We love bourbon and respect the laws that protect and define it. Working within these established regulations ensures a certain level of quality and consistency. By not allowing artificial flavors and colors these laws can push distillers, blenders, and marketers to differentiate bourbon in truly innovative ways. But it can also act to somewhat limit flavor profiles by strictly regulating the grains used in a bourbon mash bill and the aging process. The Bottled in Bond Act, passed in 1897, was the first consumer protection law. It’s aim was to protect whiskey drinkers from adulterated spirits while ensuring quality and a consistent age and proof. There was a tax incentive thrown in as well. “To be labeled as Bottled-in-Bond or Bonded, the liquor must be the product of one distillation season (January – June or July – December) and one distiller at one distillery. It must have been aged in a federally bonded warehouse under U.S. government supervision for at least four years and bottled at 100 (U.S.) proof (50% alcohol by volume). The bottled product’s label must identify the distillery where it was distilled and, if different, where it was bottled. Only spirits produced in the United States may be designated as bonded.” [Wikipedia] Much later, in 1969, The Federal Standards of Identity for Distilled Spirits Act placed further regulation on spirits, including Bourbon and Whiskey. It is part of this act that outlines the legal requirements for Bourbon that must still be followed today. Some bourbon brands are bending these regulations. For reasons ranging from differentiating their products in a growing market, to increased profits, to just plain curiosity. Angel’s Envy is one of the more well-known, and successful, examples of Bourbon experimentation and pushes into a gray area of Bourbon law. By taking Bourbon and putting it in used port wine barrels for a second aging, or “finishing”, they create a uniquely flavored whiskey. Many other brands have followed suit by also taking traditionally produced Bourbon and finishing it in barrels previously used to age other spirits, beers, or wines. Angel’s Envy will use a port cask 3 to 4 times before refilling the cask with port wine to get the port flavors back before dumping the wine and adding the next batch of Bourbon. I call this a gray area because Bourbon, by law, must be aged in brand new charred oak containers and cannot have any coloring or flavoring added. This is a pretty clear method of adding flavor. In my opinion these “finished” Bourbons should more appropriately be labeled “Whiskey made with Bourbon”. But, the TTB who approves all spirit labels, seems to be allowing this process of used barrel aging and added flavor. Angel’s Envy and other finishers produce excellent whiskey, as their sales undoubtedly reflect. And to many, producing an excellent whiskey that drinkers truly enjoy is held above all else. Other producers have found creative ways to stick to both the letter of the law and the spirit of bourbon regulations. Four Roses uses 5 different yeast strains and 2 mashbills to create 10 unique flavor profiles which they either blend or bottle individually to create unique products. The Buffalo Trace Experimental Collections is another great example of tweaking the source grains, mashbills, and aging processes to produce Bourbons that are truly Bourbon. Past experiments have included the Single Oak Project, infrared barrel exposure, and using grains grown at the distillery. Jefferson’s produces another example of creative experimentation with their Jefferson’s Ocean: Aged at Sea bottlings. By exposing aging Bourbon barrels to a sea journey atop the deck of a boat; they end up with a Bourbon flavor profile affected by the sea air, water, and the motion of the ocean. Then we have Marko Karakasevic. Marko is a 13th generation distiller and the creative mind behind Charbay Distillery in St Helena, CA. Marko threw the whole rule book out the window. He makes whiskey and other spirits on his own terms. He does NOT make Bourbon, more of his thoughts on that later. Charbay follows a unique process of distilling beer to make their whiskey. I don’t mean ‘distillers beer’, I mean real high quality drinkable beer. Marko’s family began distilling in Serbia in 1751 and has been in the business ever since. Marko moved to California with his parents in 1983 where they began making brandy and fresh fruit flavored vodkas. In the early 90’s he had the idea to distill beer into whiskey. His first beer order came in at 6,000 gallons of IPA. Marko, the sole distiller at Charbay, follows a grueling process to turn that beer into whiskey. He runs his cognac pot still 24×7 for ten days, going through 18 to 20 runs for a single batch. A typical column or hybrid still with a doubler requires just 2 to 3 runs. Why does Marko use a pot still? “The flavor and body come from the pot, there is no comparison between a pot and column still. A column or hybrid still is great for capturing the top notes but they don’t collect the body.” He distills to about 140 proof and barrels at full strength. A single batch of 6,000 gallons of beer will net about 600 gallons of distilled whiskey, or about 10 full size barrels. I mentioned that Charbay distills beer into whiskey. They source exclusively from Bear Republic Brewing Company. Various types of beer including IPA, Stout, and Pilsner. While Marko doesn’t brew the beer himself he does give feedback to the brewers at Bear Republic to make sure the beer he receives is perfect for his whiskey. I asked Marko how he chooses the beer he uses. “I drink a lot of the beer and really get to know it. If the beer tastes great you’re going to end up with a very flavorful whiskey. And that’s what I’m trying to do here.” Starting with a finished beer isn’t the only thing Marko does differently than the other guys. He doesn’t like “over-oaked” whiskey, or, whiskey that has taken on too much flavor from the barrel. His “R5” and “Stout” average 3 years in a barrel while the “R3”, made from a Pilsner beer, is double aged. First spending 6 years in new American oak and then another 8 years in a sealed stainless steel tank. The way Marko explains it, the stainless tank allows the flavors in the whiskey to mingle without taking on too much flavor from wood barrels. Charbay whiskey is certainly not a budget spirit. Bottles retail from $80 for the R5 to over $400 for the limited-edition R3. Marko knows his whiskey is on the expensive side for some. But it’s their process that makes it expensive. He isn’t using cheap industrial grain or producing hundreds of barrels per day. His source materials are expensive, the distilling process is time-consuming, and the whiskey is aged far longer than most budget Bourbons. I asked Marko what challenges he faces as a smaller, premium, brand. Not being able to sell directly to consumers is a point of frustration. And one that he shares with many distillers. Marko’s voice raises when he compares brewery and winery regulations to the much stronger restrictions on distilleries in America. “Go to a brewery or a winery for a tour and you can walk out with a bottle. Someone comes and tastes my whiskey I have to tell them to go find it at a liquor store and hope they do!” We also touched on the wording on his bottle labels displaying “Hop Flavored Whiskey”. This is a smaller point of contention for Marko, one that he seems to have accepted. The same laws that regulate Bourbon also require Charbay to label their whiskey as “flavored”. Though no coloring or flavoring is added, the whiskey is distilled with hops which somehow makes it a flavored product. I can’t pretend to understand the regulatory logic here but Marko doesn’t seem too fazed. The whiskey he makes speaks for itself. In this drinkers opinion he could pour it from a shoe box and I would savor every last drop. I finished my discussion with Marko by asking if he’d ever consider making us a Bourbon. He said, “I have no plans to make Bourbon. I still make these products for me, I’m proud of what I make and I don’t like to be told what to do.” Charbay is making whiskey that Marko and his family believe is the absolute highest quality they can possibly produce. Today you can find Charbay spirits in CA, NY, IL (yes in Chicago), TX, MO, TN, SC, AZ, and NV. Look for the second release of their Stout Whiskey and a few other special bottlings this year. ...
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Our Top 7 Bourbon Gifts for Father’s Day 2017June 2, 2017Your dad is an awesome dude. If he likes Bourbon as much as you do he deserves an awesome Bourbon gift this father’s day. From books, to apparel, to an all weekend Bourbon adventure we’ve got you covered. Check out our top gifts for father’s day 2017! THE ESSENTIAL SCRATCH & SNIFF GUIDE TO BECOMING A WHISKEY KNOW-IT-ALL $15 We have this book in the Chicago Bourbon library. It’s a fun coffee table conversation piece that might teach dad a thing or two about whiskey! “In this witty kid-style book on an adult topic, Richard Betts boils down his know-how into twenty pages, cooling our “brown-sweat” anxieties and dividing whiskey into three simple categories: Grain, Wood, and Place. While most whiskey tomes are about as fun as a chemistry lesson, Betts makes the learning slide down easy, reassuring us that this exalted spirit is just distilled beer and, through a nasal romp, helping us figure out which kinds we love best. Humorous illustrations and scratch-and-sniff scents (vanilla, sandalwood, grass, and more) help would-be connoisseurs learn their personal preferences. Language label and Map to Your Desires included.” -Amazon BARREL STRENGTH DAD T-SHIRT $25 You can’t go wrong with Bourbon apparel and we love this new t-shirt from Bourbon Outfitters. RECLAIMED BOURBON BOTTLE TABLE LAMP $90 Bottle lamps aren’t anything new but Bourbon & Boots has a great selection of bottles to match your dad’s favorite Bourbon. “Our rare & unique collection of reclaimed bourbon bottle and whiskey bottle lamps have been repurposed from authentic brand label bottles. These liquor bottle lamps feature a reclaimed wood base and signature bare copper wire accent using UL listed lamp parts.” BOURBON BARREL CUFF LINKS $30 An understated way for dad to show off his love of Bourbon, these cuff links from Shop Local Kentucky are made from real Bourbon barrel wood and feature an embossed outline of the blue grass state. GLENCAIRN CUFF LINKS $30 A classic pair of Glencairn glasses filled with just the right amount of golden whiskey make these cuff links from Bourbon Outfitters really shine. PICO MODEL C + PICOSTILL $580 For the DIY dad consider this home distilling kit that can churn out small batches of anything that can be distilled. “PicoStill is a first-of-its-kind, patent-pending distilling attachment that is compatible with all Pico® and Zymatic® brewing appliances. PicoStill is a gorgeous accessory topped with a sleek copper distilling coil and clear glass infusion chamber that fits over the Pico C Keg and can be used to distill hop oil, water, and essential oils. (Of course, with proper licenses and permits, the PicoStill can be used to distill delicious spirits as well).” BOURBON & BEYOND $70+ If your dad is a guy who appreciates experiences more than physical things take him to the upcoming Bourbon & Beyond festival in Louisville Kentucky. This is a gift you can both enjoy! “Discover, learn from, and party with our amazing lineup of the finest craftsmen and craftswomen in bourbon, food, and music.” September 23rd-24th 2017 in Louisville, KY. ...
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CH Distillery Invests In Chicago Made Spirits In A Big WayMay 16, 2017In December 2015 CH Distillery co-founder, Tremaine Atkinson, invited me to tour his Randolph Street distillery. This turned into Chicago Bourbon’s fifth blog post and the very first distillery tour I wrote about. Tremaine and his business partner Mark Lucas have been hard at work ever since. (Read our first article about CH Distillery, right here!) Flash forward to May 2017 when I bumped into Mark while having drinks with a friend who helps distilleries fill operations, marketing, and sales positions. (Reach out to us if you have or know of a distillery in need of top talent!) Mark filled me in on what I would come to know as “CH2”. A new distillery in Chicago’s Pilsen neighborhood set to come online in June. I had seen pictures over the last few months as equipment was being installed but had yet to visit. Mark and I setup a time and a week later I was pulling up to their brand new building as Mark walked out to greet me. The first thing I noticed; this is not a small project. The main distillery building is new construction solid concrete standing 60 feet tall and sitting on 2.5 acres of land. The sidewalks surrounding are brand new, the parking lot is fresh asphalt, even a retention pond to the East appeared just a few months old. Mark told me they have indeed built the distillery building from the ground up. Though he was adamant at pointing out they are paying homage to a previous tenant, Schoenhofen Brewery est. 1878, in several important ways. As we walked inside Mark threw out some stats comparing this distillery, internally called “CH2”, to the original, “CH1”, on Randolph Street. “Here we have a continuous stripping still, as opposed to the batch pot still at CH1.” (This allows them to run spirits through the stripping still continuously instead of in measured batches, greatly increasing efficiency.) “We have a 4,500 liter column still, compared to 1,000 liters at CH1, and to top it off we have these five 18,000 liter fermenters. Ten times larger than we have at CH1.” While everything at CH2 is larger, more automated, and state of the art compared to CH1 Mark made it clear the Randolph distillery, bar, and restaurant will continue in full operation. The Pilsen location is a commercial facility, closed to the public. All vodka production will move to CH2 while gin, rum, and other spirits will continue to come out of CH1. Bottling will also take place at CH2 on this impressive new bottling system. Current production at CH1 covers all Illinois bars, restaurants, and liquor stores carrying CH spirits. About 10,000 9L cases per year. This new facility will help CH cover new territories including Florida, Michigan, Missouri, Kentucky, Texas, and the East Coast. 100,000 cases is the planned max production at CH2 under the current equipment. (Of course they built with future expansion in mind.) CH does not distill whiskey, they focus on clear/unaged spirits, though they do have a barrel room to store aging rum and possibly future collaboration barrels. Mark pointed out the bright blue steel “blast panels” near the ceiling while telling me how they worked closely with their fire marshal on the planning of this entire building. The barrel room is rated to withstand 4 hours of intense heat should tragedy strike. In such an event these blast panel would blow open to allow pressure to escape while saving the structural integrity of the building. How freaking cool is that! Mark smiled when I asked him how it felt to build something requiring “blast panels”. Our tour continued to the north-west section of the building where I saw the main attraction. A mind bending 50 foot tall copper column still from Carl surrounded by a steel mesh catwalk. Mark tells me this vodka still only requires a single pass to get the alcohol proof they need. Compared to CH1 where they must run their spirits through the still twice to get to the proof needed for their vodka. Mark described this new equipment as a “game changer” for their production capacity, consistency, and efficiency. Next to the column sits a hybrid still and the continuous stripping still. I asked Mark about automation at the distillery. He pointed out the giant control panel, still half boxed on a pallet. They plan to have about 5 employees full-time at the distillery but the automation could allow them to operate with just a few people. Mark shared some insight into his co-founder and head distiller Tremaine. He says Tremaine has a keen attention to detail and though the still is automated he expects Tremaine will be keeping a close eye on production as he gets a feel for the new still. Mark and I talked about the challenges they see moving to a new distillery. He tells me that they take pride in crafting unique and flavorful spirits. As they ramp up to this much larger scale they will have to take special care to start slowly and make sure they don’t “strip” away the character that makes CH spirits so well-regarded. The last thing they want, says Mark, is to move too quickly and allow the efficiency of the new equipment to get the better of the artistic craft that so well complements the science of distillation. There are several schools of thought when it comes to opening a distillery, especially a Bourbon distillery. You either need to get product to market quickly, to get revenue on the books, or you play the long game. This almost entirely depends on your financial situation. Can you afford to sit on a large investment, the distillery, while waiting for your whiskey stocks to age? In the case of CH they have the success of their Randolph Street distillery, solid distribution and adoption by bars and restaurants, and they have an experienced team including Mark, Tremaine and Katie Cote, Director of Distillery Operations, whom they recently brought over from Diageo. Mark tells me they “aren’t in it for the quick buck.” They are continuing to build something uniquely Chicago, a city they didn’t considered leaving when they began planning the new distillery two years ago. As Mark and I walked outside we passed the mill room, where all grains are milled on-site, we passed the massive boilers and the 4,500 liter mash tanks of which there are two so they won’t miss a beat should one have an issue. When we got outside Mark pointed out the three large grain silos. One full of rye, which makes up 60% of their mashbill, a second filled with wheat, the other 40% of the mashbill. The third will contain corn when the time comes. Mark pointed out an old brick building standing across the parking. It is original to the Schoenhofen Brewery which stood on this ground in the late 1800’s. CH plans to preserve that building and use it for storage or possibly future expansion needs. I asked Mark about his plans for the rest of the 2.5 acres. He said they have their hands full focusing on the distillery. There may be an opportunity for someone else to come in with an idea for the open space but for now Mark, Tremaine, and the team are laser focused on what they do best. Crafting quality spirits right here in Chicago from locally sourced grains. ...
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A Letter From Illinois Craft Distillers…May 13, 2017UPDATE: The results are in! See the winners below! Nice to meet you. We hear you enjoy fine spirits. So do we. We enjoy them so much, we’ve made it our life’s work to bring the best distilled spirits to our community. That, in particular, is why we think you’ll be interested in the Heartland Spirits Fest, where we will bring our craft spirits to you to try. We don’t just make small batch whiskeys, bourbons, gins, and more for our communities, but we also make it using the best local ingredients we can find. Enjoying our spirits is enjoying the spirit of America. Or at least, that’s how we see it. When you sip our bourbon or whiskey, you can know you’re tasting the hard work of America’s heartland. We come from different states, but we have common threads. We use local crop born from the soil we’ve either built our shops on, or have moved into to rejuvenate our community. Some of us are in areas that aren’t very big on the map, like Fort Wayne, IN, or aren’t big on the map for the best reasons, like Detroit. So that’s why we’re eager to meet you in person on May 20, at Concord Music Hall. Because the people who know us, love us. But the people who know us don’t number in the millions, or hundreds of thousands, or even just thousands. We’re small shops making spirits for small towns, and we’re proud of that. A lot of our spirits can’t be found outside our state lines. Unless you’re ready to pack up the car and trek to Michigan or Kentucky, meeting us at the Heartland Spirits Fest is your chance. So…what are you doing next Saturday? –The Distillers Chicago Bourbon’s founder, William Reigle, will be judging the Heartland Spirits Fest Whiskey Competition taking place at CH Distillery on Thursday May 18th. More than 60 craft whiskeys are entered into the competition and 30 craft distillers will be pouring those and more at the public festival on Saturday May 20th from 12:00 – 5:00pm at the Concord Music Hall. Get your tickets for Saturday’s event right here, use code ‘CHICAGO’ for discounted tickets! ...
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The Pappy Van Winkle Hype MachineMay 10, 2017Is there ever such thing as too much good publicity? For producers and fans of Pappy Van Winkle, the luxury, premium line produced at Buffalo Trace Distillery, the answer is a resounding “yes.” It would be hard to think of a brand in any industry, let alone the bourbon industry, that would balk at the idea of free promotion. But this is exactly what happened in March with Pappy Van Winkle. Redditor /u/texacer posted this image to a bourbon board of a correspondence with J. Preston Van Winkle, the Marketing Manager for Pappy and its associated Old Rip Van Winkle line. The image was of an email responding to a request for an “Ask Me Anything” (essentially an online Q&A session) with Pappy. In his response, Preston said: “Due to the extremely limited nature of our products and all the buzz around our brands, we aren’t granting interviews at this time. We simply cannot afford further exposure. Thank you for your understanding.” The Reddit bourbon community’s reaction to this was aggressive, to say the least. Some thought the reply was holier-than-thou in nature, where others went as far as to suggest a Marketing Manager was a redundant position if a brand had achieved such fame. Regardless what your take on the above correspondence, one thing remains certain – Pappy Van Winkle actually doesn’t need any more exposure. Here’s why: The Hype Behind Pappy There’s no doubt, Pappy Van Winkle is designed as a luxury bourbon. Their lineup includes a 15 year, a 20 year and even a 23 year bourbon – all of them aged far longer than most of their kin. Because of the long aging process (and likely to foster an air of exclusivity) Pappy Van Winkle bourbon is also produced in extremely limited quantities, which fosters its scarcity right out of the distillery. This, compounded with a score of 99/100 from the Beverage Testing Institute and several celebrity endorsements, including one from famed chef Anthony Bourdain, has made Pappy extremely sought after. Actually, “extremely sought after” is a bit of an understatement. Pappy doesn’t just sell out, it sells out immediately. As soon as a release is announced, a line is bound to form. And within just minutes of hitting the shelf, you can bet every bottle of Pappy is sold. This has resulted in a thriving secondary market. While the suggested retail price of a bottle ranges between $80 and $250 (age depending), Pappy tends to sell anywhere between $750 for the entry-level stuff all the way to $5000 for the top-tier. That’s right – people have and continue to pay thousands of dollars for a single bottle of Pappy. There’s a cult-like atmosphere around it. For many fans of Pappy Van Winkle there’s Pappy – and then there’s everything else. However, this has caused some serious controversy among hardcore bourbon drinkers. Could a whiskey possibly be worth $5000 a bottle? How good can it really be? The average mortal may not ever have a chance to taste Pappy. But for the rich (or downright lucky) who have, the reviews have been highly mixed. Some claim it reigns supreme over all bourbon. Others think it’s little more than a highly successful marketing campaign. So which is it? Is Pappy Van Winkle Really That Good? First, it’s important to understand some of what sets Pappy apart. As mentioned above, its extraordinarily long aging process is the main reason it stands above most conventional Bourbons. But that’s not where the differences end – while Pappy is mostly made with corn like all other Bourbons, it uses wheat as its secondary grain instead of rye and incorporates some malted barley. The second thing to note is that Pappy has won several awards and blind tastings, and achieved the aforementioned 99/100 from the Beverage Testing Institute (the highest score ever given.) So at the very least, a few experts agree it’s pretty damn good. But drinkers aren’t so easily persuaded. Pappy often appears on threads dedicated to the most overrated Bourbons, and some tasters have found it bland (a far cry from the “intense fruit” promised in many other reviews). It’s pretty well established that Pappy Van Winkle is, at the very least, decently good. Even those who aren’t blown away would hardly spit it out. The real question is, would you pay thousands of dollars for a bottle? Do You Have Pappy Fever? The hype around Pappy Van Winkle is so intense, their marketing team literally goes out of its way to avoid further publicity. Its scarcity, combined with a cult-like following and a thriving resale market means it’s already priced to a point that makes many drinkers scoff, and some write it off as “overrated.” As of now, there’s no quantifiable way to judge whether Pappy deserves its hype. But if you’re willing to believe the likes of The Beverage Testing Institute and Anthony Bourdain, the answer is probably “yes.” There’s only one way to find out for sure. If you ever get your hands on a bottle of Pappy Van Winkle, it’s certain you’ll want to savor it, overhyped or not. How much is too much to pay for a bottle of Pappy? Like most collectibles that all depends on the buyer. Despite the lack of a marketing effort, the Pappy Van Winkle franchise isn’t taking a break. In April 2017 they released their oldest and most expensive Bourbon to date. Old Rip Van Winkle 25 year with an MSRP of $1,799 and production of a scant 710 bottles. While it will be next to impossible to find a bottle retail, one Chicago bar is already offering pours of this Bourbon at $225 per ounce. (Expect to pay upwards of $10,000 for a bottle if you find one!) Crain’s Chicago Business recently interviewed Chicago Bourbon Founder William Reigle to get his thoughts on Pappy Van Winkle. Read the Crain’s article here! ...
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WhiskyFest Chicago 2017 Recap!May 2, 2017This year marked the 20th anniversary of WhiskyFest. An important milestone for any annual event but especially one spanning four cities, accommodating 82 exhibitors, and hosting over 2,000 attendees. I spoke with Joan McGinley, Director of WhiskyFest Events to get her thoughts on how the event has matured over the years. “The exhibitors are bringing out their best: more of the exhibitors are bringing in their own displays and bars for WhiskyFest. The Jack Daniels cooper demonstration was super-popular, and people stood in line to get an autographed piece of a barrel, The House of Suntory brought in their Toki cart and were offering Toki cocktails…And the seminars were great this year!” When asked how the event has changed over the 10 years Joan has coordinated she had this to say. “If my count is correct, 48 of the 87 booths in Chicago were custom displays. The number of whiskies being offered is also on the increase. We exceeded the 400 mark at this year’s WhiskyFest Chicago. We offer a WhiskyFest app that includes every item being poured, a map of the ballroom, and all the seminars being offered. This allows attendees to plan their evening before they reach the event; they can also connect with other whisky lovers through the app.” From an attendee perspective I will say this is one event that is incredibly well-organized and executed. Read our coverage of the 2016 Chicago WhiskyFest, click here! In the days leading up to WhiskyFest I plotted my course to make sure I would hit the VIP pours I salivated over. I absolutely had to try new releases from Wild Turkey, Four Roses, WhistlePig, Parker’s Heritage and others. Limited bottles that are either nearly impossible to find or priced just a bit too high to buy before trying. I also hit a few other brands with interesting whiskies and upcoming projects to share. When the doors opened I followed my predetermined path to Wild Turkey where a familiar face was pouring this year’s Wild Turkey Master’s Keep Decades. A bottle I’ve been looking forward to trying ever since Chicago Bourbon contributor Jacqueline Rice told me about it after the 2016 Kentucky Bourbon Affair. Last year’s Master’s Keep 17 year, while well-balanced, was a bit one-dimensional. I hoped Decades, bottled at 104 proof vs last years 86.8, would bring the complexity I was looking for. It could have been that it was poured by Eddie Russell but I really enjoyed Decades. It exceeded my expectations as a standout example of what Wild Turkey can do when they exercise their blending ability to balance 10 to 20-year-old Bourbons. Read our 2016 Kentucky Bourbon Affair recap, click here! My next stops were to get my Parker’s Heritage and Elijah Craig fix at the Heaven Hill booths. During the VIP hour Elijah Craig Single Barrel 23 and 18 were flowing. I tasted both back to back to see how the extra years might have affected this Bourbon. The 18 is outstanding, again a well-balanced, complex, high corn (75%) / low rye (13%) expression. I believe the extra corn in this mashbill lends to the sweet, ripe, fruit notes and smooth long finish. The 23 is a bit more oaked, a thicker mouthfeel, with a noticeable drop in sweetness replaced by a dry finish. The Elijah Craig 18 wins in my book. Denny Potter, Master Distiller Heaven Hill, poured the Parker’s Heritage 24 year Bottled-in-Bond. Aged 24 years and bottled at 100 proof this was my first time trying this release. First impression is surprisingly smooth for its age. While Heaven Hill doesn’t publish the exact mashbill for this Bourbon it is a blend of rye and wheat Bourbons. I’m a sucker for wheated Bourbon, it could be the wheat in Parker’s that really grabbed hold of my tastebuds. But whatever it was I’m happy I had the opportunity to try it and meet the man who now leads the charge behind this and other excellent Heaven Hill brands. Buffalo Trace Master Distiller Harlen Wheatley poured the Buffalo Trace Antique Collection at the next booth. The George T. Stagg is always popular, but not listed on the WhiskyFest menu was the Eagle Rare 17 year Harlen also poured, my personal favorite in the annual BTAC release. Adjoined to Buffalo Trace was Old Rip Van Winkle pouring the full lineup of Pappy Van Winkle juice. I skipped the line for Pappy 23, not my favorite, and went for a pour of the 15 and 20 while chatting with our Illinois brand reps, some of the friendliest in the business. Next up was a Rye that I’ll admit had yet to pass my lips. I maneuvered my way to the next aisle over where I found Beam Suntory American Whiskey Ambassador Adam Harris pouring the infamous Booker’s Rye. I accepted my pour from Adam then took a walk around the floor while I sipped. This Rye has received a huge amount of hype and I went in with some speculation. The first sip grabbed my attention, the second, third, and fourth proved the hype is not unfounded. This is one of the best Rye whiskeys I’ve tasted. Unfortunately impossible to find retail and whether it’s worth the secondary market price of $600-$700 is entirely up to you. Read our interview with Beam Suntory’s Adam Harris, click here! Now I said Booker’s Rye was one of the best Rye’s I’ve tasted. I continued my Rye kick by stopping by Redemption to see our buddies Mark Lowen and Eric Rosentreter. They poured me a sample of their 9 year Rye, to compliment their 7 year I was drinking the night before. Mark and I each flashed our Stave & Thief challenge coins from our time in the Executive Bourbon Steward Certification program. Eric and I talked about his time working with the Beverage Testing Institute in Chicago. If you’re interested in learning how one of the most respected panels in the world judges spirits, sign-up for our email list. I’ll be sitting on their American Whiskey judging panel this August and will report back with a full rundown! Read our first hand account completing the Stave & Thief Society’s Executive Bourbon Steward Program, click here! Keeping on my Rye kick I visited the team at WhistlePig for a taste of their brand new FarmStock Rye. This is a Rye I’ve had before, at their Chicago launch party a month earlier at Bad Hunter. At that time I described it’s nose being sweet and sugary, a smooth palate with notes of light cinnamon and caramel, with a nice spicy and long Rye finish. FarmStock is “Bottled in Barn” at 86 proof. A blend of 20% 1-year-old Vermont rye, 49% 5-year-old Canadian rye, and 31% 12-year-old Indiana rye. The Vermont rye portion is the first rye release grown, distilled, aged, and bottled by WhistlePig on their farm. Future releases should contain increased portions of the Vermont rye. UPDATE: WhistlePig just won Whiskey of the Year at the 2017 San Francisco World Spirits Competition with their upcoming WhistlePig Boss Hog IV ‘The Black Prince’ Rye! Read our previous article about brand recognition where we discuss WhistlePig’s strategy, click here! As the 9:00 hour drew near I set my sights on two more Bourbon booths. Our local Four Roses reps have been gracious to Chicago Bourbon since the beginning. Brian and Mike pour Four Roses at some great events around the city. They’ve helped Chicago Bourbon host a Four Roses exclusive tasting where we sampled a bottle of the 2016 Single Barrel Limited Edition “Elliott’s Select”. They even invited me to a staff training during Whisky Week where I had the opportunity to meet Al Young and listen to him tell the story of the brand. Tonight they poured the mainstays of the brand, Yellow/Small Batch/Single Barrel, and last year’s Limited Edition Small Batch and Single Barrel. Their standard Single Barrel is one of the best values in Bourbon today. It has the depth and complexity of a Bourbon twice it’s price in today’s Bourbon market. The Elliott’s Select takes Single Barrel to a great new place. A 14-year-old OESK recipe bottled at around 120 proof it has a bit of sweetness and a spicy finish that continues to evolve as the seconds go by. One of my top Bourbons of 2016! For my last taste of the night I spoke with John Rempe, creator of Blood Oath Bourbon. Blood Oath is a bottling from Luxco, who also produces Rebel Yell and Yellowstone, via Limestone Branch Distillery, among others. John poured me a sample of their latest Blood Oath Pact 3 while filling me in on their new distillery now under construction in Kentucky, Lux Row Distillers. The new distillery, set on 70 pristine acres in Bardstown, will feature a visitors center and event venue and will be a member of the official Kentucky Bourbon Trail. While talking with John and his team I sampled Rebel Yell 10 year and Yellowstone 2016 Limited Edition, finished in wine barrels. Both the Yellowstone LE and the Yellowstone Select stood out to me and I would easily drink again. I chatted with many attendees and found one common theme, everyone has a different favorite. Most people either had tried something new or were willing to take a tip from me and break from their Scotch quest to sample a Bourbon or two. And that my friends is what WhiskyFest is all about. Bringing together lovers of whiskey to both sample old favorites and experience new products; possibly finding a fresh favorite along the way. Master Distillers are there and they are approachable. Although WhiskyFest can feel crowded at times it’s definitely reasonable to get a little one on one conversation with your favorite Master Distiller or brand ambassador. I flagged down Buffalo Trace’s Master Distiller Harlen Wheatley, probably interrupting a bathroom break after VIP hour, to compliment his work. And yes, of course I showed him my wedding ring lined with used Buffalo Trace barrel stave wood. (I do indeed have the coolest wife ever.) When I found myself nosing a cup of coffee at the end of the night I knew it was probably time to head home. And when I got home from WhiskyFest…I cracked a beer and sat down for the first time in 5 days to enjoy some family time and give my wife a full rundown. Something I’m sure she was looking forward to hearing at 11:00pm but excitement I just couldn’t contain until Saturday morning. WhiskyFest is not the only whiskey event in Chicago during the week also known as “Chicago Whiskey Week”. Many Chicago bars and restaurants host visiting master distillers and brand reps for tastings and dinners throughout the week leading up to WhiskyFest. This year we attended tastings at Delilah’s, pouring Whiskey in Chicago for 23 years, and Binny’s World of Whiskies on the eve of the big event. Keep an eye on the Chicago Bourbon Events Calendar for upcoming events all year. Subscribe to our email list below and get upcoming events in your inbox every week! ...
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What Happens When Your Favorite Bourbon Brand Gets A New Owner?April 11, 2017Bourbon brands often change hands. This isn’t something new to the spirits industry. Classic mainstays like Jim Beam (Beam Family>American Tobacco>American Brands>Fortune Brands>Suntory>Beam Suntory), Maker’s Mark (Samuel’s Family>Hiram Walker & Sons>Allied Domecq>Fortune Brands>Beam Inc>Beam Suntory), and Four Roses (Paul Jones, Jr>Seagram>Pernod>Kirin) have been traded amongst parent companies since pre-prohibition. Bourbon brands were traded for a vodka brand, a gin, or rum. Strengthening a portfolio in a weak area by trading a brand they no longer need. “Shuffling the deck” as it were. This happened before prohibition, and especially after as the Bourbon industry grew up. Recent examples include Angel’s Envy (purchased by Bacardi in 2015) and High West (purchased by Constellation Brands in 2016). Both of these brands began life blending whiskies sourced from other distilleries, namely MGP. While High West did run its own distillery since it’s inception it, like Angel’s Envy, has taken its huge cash infusion from a new parent company and built an impressive new distillery, moving to distill all of their whiskey in-house. Justin Lew, VP of Marketing for High West was quoted in a Quartz article last year speaking about educating consumers during this transition: “In terms of marketing… it’s really the art of blending that is central,” says Justin Lew, VP of Marketing. “We’re using [whiskey] that we’ve purchased and [whiskey] that we’ve made to create something completely different. I think that message is easier for somebody to understand, so the transition will not be as abrupt two years from now,” he says, estimating when the bulk of their own products will be ready for standalone release.” It doesn’t always take an acquisition to cause a change in a well-known whiskey brand. WhistlePig began by sourcing rye whiskey from Canada while they built their own distillery and began aging their own whiskey stocks. The plan from the beginning was to be a distiller. Last month, March 2017, WhistlePig released Farmstock. Their latest rye whiskey and the first to use a blend containing whiskey they distilled themselves. While they’re still sourcing whiskey, from Canada and Indiana, they will move to using more and more of their own whiskey with each future release; up to a 100% estate whiskey. WhistlePig is getting ahead of these changes by being completely transparent on the Farmstock label. The back of each bottle states the origin, percentage, age and more about each whiskey in the blend. Instead of trying to match the flavor profile of past releases they are creating new products and showcasing the nuanced differences. This is a great approach, we hope more brands take notice and continue to become more transparent. I spoke with WhistlePig Midwest Brand Ambassador Taylor Hansen who had a few thoughts to share about WhistlePig’s strategy for the future. “We have sourced our 10-Year from Alberta since day 1, and our 12-Year from MGP. Now that our state-of-the-art Rye still is up and running and our grain fields producing, we had the choice to make of how we integrate these new flavors into our portfolio. The simple answer is, the distillers making our 10-Year / 15-Year / Boss Hog juice clearly did a damn fine job and with the level of business we do with them, we are immensely proud of their work. They produce WhistlePig to our specifications and we age appropriately with very calculated methods. We consider them an extension of ourselves and every bit as responsible for our success as any of our own in-house actions. Our relationship is symbiotic. Rather than cut that tie and replace the juice that IS WhistlePig with something new, we are not going to stop sourcing our 10 / 12. Rather, we released the FarmStock, our first non-age statement extension.” In my opinion this is a great way to tackle this challenge. The product consumers have come to know will not change. Instead, WhistlePig will showcase their own distillate in an exciting new way. Consumers may be a fan of the “original” stuff or may prefer the new estate whiskey. But, they’ll have their choice, and may even love them both. “One of the difficulties in transitioning from sourced juice to estate is recreating the old flavor profile that your consumers are loyal to, in a new location / still / rick house. No matter how talented a distiller may be, each still has a unique personality and will impart a bit of that nuance onto the distillate. The trick is, getting as close as possible and blending to reach that defining profile of your brand.” – Taylor Hansen Bulleit Bourbon, owned by Diageo, was contract distilled by Four Roses for many years before that agreement expired. What you find on the shelf today, with a Bulleit label, was distilled by Four Roses. A few years from now when that stock is depleted it will have to come from somewhere else. Diageo is famously tight-lipped about the source of its whiskey. Going so far as to craft elaborate stories of “hidden and nearly forgotten” barrels (Orphan Barrel). We may never know where future bottles of Bulleit are distilled or aged. One can hope Diageo will decide to step into the light and divulge more, as that’s what enthusiasts and consumers continue to demand. But it’s very likely you won’t hear a peep from Diageo when the source of Bourbon in those Bulleit bottles changes. I highly doubt they will change any of the branding. This will be an example of a brand working to maintain consistency as the source of Bourbon changes. I’ll be interested to see if a bottle of Bulleit purchased today tastes the same as one a few years from now. (*Bulleit Rye has always been distilled at MGP.) A new master distiller can also impact flavor profiles. Four Roses yearly ‘Limited Edition’ Small Batch and Single Barrel releases are picked by their Master Distiller. From 1995 to 2015 that was Jim Rutledge, with the help of Brent Elliott and others. In 2015 Brent Elliott took over the title of Master Distiller and picked his first limited edition’s the following year. With a new nose and a new palate can come different flavor profiles. In an interview with Breaking Bourbon, Brent was asked what he might do differently than Jim: “I don’t really feel a need to change anything. It sounds kind of boring, but it ain’t broke and I don’t plan to fix anything. I think we might have slightly different palates, but even so we worked together on every limited edition and I think we both saw eye-to-eye on those dating all the way back to 2009 when I started working on those.” -Brent Elliott What Doesn’t Change? No matter who owns a bourbon brand, a huge company like Mitsubishi, parent company of Kirin which is the parent company of Four Roses, or a family owned craft distiller like Whiskey Acres, they are still bound by the laws protecting bourbon. Unlike other industries, when a Bourbon brand is purchased, the new owners can’t move production to China to save a buck. They must distill in America, from corn, on a copper still, and age in new charred oak for years. There’s no way around that if they want to continue selling bourbon. The process of distilling and aging Bourbon doesn’t leave a lot of room for drastic changes. But, that doesn’t mean brands can’t experiment. Buffalo Trace Distillery has long been known to experiment with various aging techniques. Including the Single Oak Project and more recently their use of 300 year old trees. WhistlePig uses Vermont Oak to age some of their rye. And many producers, including Woodford Reserve, Angel’s Envy, and WhistlePig experiment with finishing their whiskey in different types of barrels. What Can Change? Shuttering smaller family distilleries, like Stitzel-Weller, and moving production to different physical distilleries, like Buffalo Trace and Heaven Hill, does force change. The source of grains may change to match the larger company’s economies of scale. Barrel manufacturers may change. The type, design, and nuances of the still can change. Even the natural yeasts in the air and the temperatures and micro climates of the aging warehouses will be different. There are stories of distilleries actually recreating dents in a new still to match dents in their old still in an attempt to maintain consistency of the distillate. This is a huge consideration with brands like Angel’s Envy, WhistlePig, High West and others who have built a reputation around sourced whiskey. Consumers know the flavor profile of these brands. Now each one has built their own distillery and begun distilling their own whiskey. The finished product will undoubtedly change but will it be a nuanced difference? A drastic change in flavor profile? Will consumers prefer it to the sourced whiskey they’ve come to recognize under that label? Or will these brands loose part of the loyal following that helped build them? It will be at least a few years before we have answers to those questions. After all, bourbon takes time no matter who’s making it. So while the bourbon will continue to be bourbon, it likely won’t be the same exact bourbon you’ve come to know. It may fall out of favor, but, it may get even better. The same master distillers and pioneers who built brands such as Maker’s Mark and Angel’s Envy, haven’t simply faded into bourbon history. They’ve started their own brands, once again looking to find a foothold in an ever-changing industry. And the cycle continues. I recently sat down with Marc Bushala, Chicago resident and President & CEO of Liquid Asset Brands. Marc’s company finds and invests in spirits brands looking to grow and make their mark. They recently launched “Stolen Whiskey” to the US market and are opening a new distillery in Chicago later this year. Reid Mitenbuler’s book, Bourbon Empire, inspired me to write this post. The book is an excellent deep dive into Bourbon’s history but also America’s history. If you’re interested in learning more about Bourbon I highly recommend picking up Reid’s book. In his book, Reid says that it is what’s behind the label that counts. And I share a sentiment with him that while “Local Craft Bourbon” is enjoying a renaissance; those words only goes so far if a distiller is producing subpar bourbon. I believe that this Bourbon boom we’re enjoying has a LOT more time to show us what it can do. Eventually, when the craft spirits market reaches critical mass, the distillers making great whiskey will either have been bought by the big guys or held out as an independent distiller. But the ones making anything less than a great product will be left out in the cold. And that my friends will be a great time to buy a used still! ...
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Does the “No Age Statement” Trend Mean Bad News for Your Bourbon?March 28, 2017 To your average consumer, the age of a whiskey is often viewed as synonymous with its quality. Older = better was an easy gauge of value, especially since it almost always corresponded with a price increase. This was true for every dram from Scotches to Bourbon, and made marketing older whiskey an easy endeavor. But lately, there’s been a shift in the industry away from aged whiskey towards a No Age Statement (NAS) equivalent. It’s not that these whiskies aren’t aged at all, it’s simply that rather than have a specific barrel age, the whiskey is composed of a blend of variously aged whiskies, selected and blended by the distiller to evoke a consistent flavor. This has caused some controversy among drinkers. Many believe this is simply a cost-cutting measure by distilleries looking to increase profit without reducing supply. Yet, others believe this is a welcome shift away from the older = better mentality which is often little more than a marketing gimmick. The NAS debate has received a particular amount of attention from bourbon drinkers recently after Heaven Hill announced last year they’d be dropping the age statement from their incredibly popular and well-reviewed Elijah Craig 12 Year. As this trend becomes more commonplace, drinkers are asking the question: “How will this affect my whiskey?” What is “No Age Statement” Whiskey? As mentioned above, NAS whiskey is simply the blend of several whiskies, aged different years. In the case of the aforementioned Elijah Craig, the newer NAS version will contain bourbon aged between 8 and 12 years. There’s plenty of bourbon that still carries an age statement. Knob Creek 9, Eagle Rare 10, and Bulleit 10 Year Reserve to name a few (not to mention the notorious Pappy Van Winkle lineup). But there’s arguably even more brands that have lacked an age statement even before the trend. Premium offerings like Blanton’s Original, Four Roses Small Batch, Basil Hayden’s and Woodford Reserve Distiller’s Select have never carried an age statement. These are considered top-tier bourbons – if they don’t need one why do others? Really, all NAS whiskey represents is the distiller’s preference and recipe. If a whiskey has traditionally been made with a blend of ages, it’s likely to continue to be made that way today. Of course, that usually leaves room for an ultra-premium offering that might contain an age, if only for the marketability. What causes the controversy is when classic, well-loved whiskies are dropping their age statement, potentially altering the taste. The Pros and Cons of No Age Statement Whiskey Let’s look at the worst possible reasons and outcomes for dropping an age statement from a whiskey. If you’re a distillery offering a popular bourbon that is aged 12 years, and you’d like to increase profit there’s a few steps you could take. A simple price increase is a good first step, but you risk becoming less competitive with less-expensive whiskey. You could always make more, but that might require the expenses of a larger distillery and more staff. Or, you could simply age it less, thus getting it to market quicker allowing you to effectively sell more of it. That’s what many feel is driving the adoption of NAS bourbon. With its recent spike in popularity, bourbon distilleries are struggling to meet demand, and extremely popular offering are often sold out. In fact, Makers Mark tried to offer their whiskey at a lower proof (40% ABV instead of 45%) to help meet demand, but were forced to back out after public outrage. The cons of NAS bourbon are pretty obvious. If the aging process improves flavor, or at least has consistently achieved a flavor drinkers enjoy, changing that process might harm a beloved bourbon, all so the producers can pad their pockets a bit more. But distillers tend to disagree. Instead of harming the whiskey, many distillers believe dropping the age statement allows for more flexibility. To achieve a consistent flavor, distilleries that offer an aged whiskey are largely at the mercy of fortune once the bourbon is in the barrel. However, for those distillers who can combine whiskey of various ages, they’re able to assemble a puzzle from assorted flavors to achieve their desired dram. Naturally, distillers are going to want more flexibility to practice their craft. And consumers are going to want quality of product over company profits. Which begs the question, who’s right? NAS Wrap Up There’s no correct answer in the age statement debate. For lovers of aged whiskey, the NAS movement will always seem a travesty. But many distillers are heralding a new age of flexibility, not beholden to aging whiskey to a certain age (which some view as little more than a marketing ploy.) What’s important is to make sure you’re still loving your drink. The NAS Elijah Craig has received similarly positive reviews as the 12 year, and if other distilleries are able to meet this level of quality, the NAS movement may simply mean more bourbon for everyone. ...
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Tasted: Cognac Cask Finished Belle Meade BourbonMarch 22, 2017If you haven’t heard the story behind Nelson’s Green Brier Distillery you’re missing out on a lot of whiskey history. Based in Nashville Tennessee brothers Charlie and Andy Nelson are crafting Tennessee Whiskey and Bourbon with a rich heritage going back before prohibition. You see, the boy’s great-great-great grandfather was distilling some of the first Tennessee Whiskey ever produced back in the 1800’s. It’s his legacy that inspired Charlie and Andy to bring the brand back in 2009, exactly 100 years after the original distillery shuttered it’s doors due to prohibition. Let’s take a quick look at what Nelson’s Green Brier is making, why they’re doing it, and just as importantly how they craft their whiskey. They have two core brands with a handful of staple releases as well as several limited edition bottlings. Under the Nelson’s Green Brier brand is their original Tennessee White Whiskey. Bottled at 91 proof and distilled from a mash of corn, wheat, and barley this whiskey is charcoal filtered. Charcoal filtration is a hallmark of all Tennessee Whiskey and is a step required by law. The other brand and by far their wider line is Belle Meade Bourbon. Their original bourbon represents the Belle Meade brand their ancestor introduced way back when. It’s won numerous medals including a double gold at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition in 2015. Bottled at 90.4 proof with a high-rye mashbill of 30%. This is truly a small batch bourbon consisting of just 4 barrels, 6 to 8 years old, coming from two different mashbills and yeast strains. Complexity of flavor at work my friends. Coming to market with a 6 year old product means they are sourcing their aged whiskey from other distillers. A process not uncommon among craft distillers while they wait for their own distilled whiskey to age. These guys haven’t stopped at whiskey and bourbon. They are also creating finished bourbons using Sherry, Madeira, and Cognac casks. The newest entrant, and the one we most recently tasted, is the Cognac Cask Finished Belle Meade Bourbon. A blend of 6 to 9 year old bourbons finished in casks that previously held French Champagne XO Cognacs for 12 years. This finished bourbon is non-chill filtered and bottled at 90.4 proof. TASTED Belle Meade Bourbon Nose- Sweet Fruit Green apple Slight perceived tartness Palate- A little sweet Some spice Not too complex Short finish Cognac Cask Finished Belle Meade Bourbon Nose- Sweet Ripe red fruit Cherry Palate- More complex than their standard Bourbon Short finish Minimal heat If you make it to visit their distillery they do offer tours to the public. To sweeten the deal they also have a Belle Meade Bourbon Single Barrel Cask Strength that is only available for purchase at the distillery. ...
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An Interview With Adam Harris, Beam Suntory American Whiskey AmbassadorMarch 15, 2017Recently I sat down with Beam Suntory National American Whiskey Ambassador Adam Harris to learn about his role and experiences at Beam. Beam Suntory is the parent company of many whiskey and spirits brands including: Jim Beam, Maker’s Mark, Knob Creek, Booker’s/Baker’s/Basil Hayden’s, and Old Grand-Dad as well as top-shelf Scotch, Japanese Whisky, and Vodkas. I first met Adam at Chicago’s 2016 WhiskyFest. He gave a presentation titled, “Kentucky Uncut: Barrel Proof Jewels from Beam Suntory”. Adam brought with him four barrel proof Bourbons including Maker’s Mark Cask Strength, Maker’s 46 Cask Strength, which is only available at the distillery, Booker’s Small Batch Cask Strength and Booker’s Bluegrass Small Batch Cask Strength. He told a few great stories as we sampled these Bourbons. Such as sitting next to Jimmy Russell while listening to another bourbon producer describe his juice with intricate details such as “gently used pipe tobacco” and “leather from an old book stored in a musty bookstore”. After some time Jimmy turned and said something to the effect of “I don’t know about you but I don’t put any of that crap in my bourbon!” (Read our complete coverage of the 2016 Chicago WhiskyFest, click here!) Chicago Bourbon: How did you get started in the spirits industry? Adam Harris: “I had three goals after college. Drink whiskey, play pool, and juggle.” Naturally this led Adam to New York, the juggling capital of the world, *probably not true, to begin his journey. He started his career as a bartender in 2003. “Customers didn’t know much about Bourbon at that time. I was enthusiastic.” Adam tended bar for about 6 of the next 10 years he spent in NY. Based on his reputation in the bar scene, Maker’s Mark offered him a job working for the distillery. This position took him back to his home state of Texas, where he still resides. From there, with a little help from his friend Bernie Lubbers, Adam moved up to take Bernie’s position with Beam Suntory covering Beam’s American Whiskey portfolio at a National level. “When I picture a Maker’s Mark consumer I see a connoisseur, someone who knows what they want and is loyal.” CB: Can you tell us a bit about your typical day? Adam: “There are 12 Beam ambassadors for various spirits. I oversee our 2 whiskey ambassadors. One based on the East Coast, one on the West, and myself covering the Midwest. I spend most of my time in the Texas and Chicago markets.” He goes on to say that a big part of what he does is being out on the front lines, educating and talking about Bourbon. “As much as I enjoy drinking Bourbon, I enjoy talking about it just as much.” Adam also continues to educate himself, visiting distilleries, working at them for weeks on end. Getting the full experience of how whiskies are made. He spent a week working with Dave Pickerell at Maker’s Mark when he first came on board. (Read our complete coverage of Untitled’s Rye Heritage Month event, click here!) CB: You were just at Beam’s Alberta Rye Distillery in Canada. Tell us about that visit. Adam: “I’ve never seen anything like it. We have several different types of stills and use the facility to produce all of Beam Suntory brand’s foreign Rye whisky. American Rye brands are produced here in the states.” Adam tells me they also do a lot of contract distilling in that facility and he’s excited to see what comes out as they have ramped up their Rye production. CB: The Bourbon industry has changed dramatically in the past five/ten years. What have you seen from inside Beam and what do you see coming in the next five years? Adam: “The cocktail movement started around the time of Bourbon’s rise. The consumer’s need to know more about what they’re eating and drinking took hold. Education and continuing to learn is very important in this industry. The flavored [“finished”] Bourbon trend has helped to bring in new consumers. It’s not for everybody but it is for somebody. It’s a way to introduce people to Bourbon and possibly turn them into regular Bourbon drinkers.” He goes on to say that 10 years ago he poured a lot of easy drinking Bourbon. Brands like Maker’s Mark, Jim Beam White, and Basil Hayden’s. Now he pours more of the Cask Strength higher proof Bourbons. He sees people moving in the direction of bigger bolder flavors. “We are truly a whiskey company first and foremost.” CB: Do you see any upcoming challenges to the Bourbon/whiskey industry given the recent surge? Adam: “Higher proof, fuller flavor is taking stage. Inventory is and will continue to be a challenge. There are some great craft distilleries making great American whiskey. It’s going to become obvious as the dust settles to see who’s in it for the money and who has the passion.” CB: If you were going to pour yourself a whiskey or Bourbon at home tonight what would it be? Adam: “Baker’s on a big solid cube of ice stirred with my finger. Then I would have another until the large ice cube is gone. The ice at home self governs my consumption!” Adam Harris is based in Houston Texas and makes it up to Chicago as often as possible. He has spent time at Beam’s Deerfield office and is looking forward to future visits to the new Merchandise Mart headquarters in downtown Chicago. Subscribe to our email list below and get notified the minute we publish a tour a photos of the new offices when Adam shows us around during a future Chicago visit! Beam Suntory recently inked a deal with Wrigley Field naming Beam the Official Spirits Partner of the Cubs. Read more from Crain’s. ...
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What’s The Deal With Canadian Rye Whisky?March 7, 2017(This article written by guest blogger Cameron Smith, author of Sublime Imbibing) Canadian Rye is Surging onto the North American Whiskey Scene Just like Scotch is an essential part of Scottish culture and bourbon an icon of Americana, rye whiskey is a distinctive part of Canadian heritage. Canadian whisky has a several hundred year history, and its distinctive light taste has made it popular in mixed drinks around the world. Brands like Canadian Club and Crown Royal are essential bottles in most bars. Yet, up until recently, Canadian rye whisky has been treated as an inexpensive, inoffensive mixing whisky, rarely if ever to be consumed straight up. That has begun to change, with a flood of high-quality rye whiskies entering the market, challenging classic Kentucky bourbon as the North American spirit of choice. Just last year, legendary whisky reviewer Jim Murray named Crown Royal’s Northern Harvest Rye his “2016 World Whisky of the Year” generating a surge of interest in this and other Canadian whiskies. (The 2017 winner was another Rye whiskey, this time from Jim Beam. Booker’s Rye 13 Year Old.) Here’s what you need to know when reaching for your next bottle of Canadian rye: Canadian “Rye” Doesn’t Need to Contain Rye If you want to legally call a whiskey a “rye” in the United States, it’s pretty simple – your whiskey better contain at least 51% rye grain. But that’s not how it works up North. Several hundred years ago, when Canadian distillers began making whisky, they generally produced light-tasting, multi-grain spirits with a corn base. But when they began to introduce spicy, flavorful rye grain to the mash, there was a surge in popularity for Canadian whisky. This spirit was referred to simply as “rye,” regardless of the percentage of rye grain it contained. Two hundred years later, “Canadian whisky” and “rye whisky” are legally interchangeable, as long as they’re produced in line with the traditional style of the spirit. Up until recently, the majority of Canadian whisky called rye contained little or no actual rye grain. But as North American palates have shifted back towards more robust, potent drams, so too has Canada’s use of rye. Some Canadian Rye You Ought to Try If you’re looking to try some of the character-filled Canadian ryes growing in popularity, here are a few brands to look for: Crown Royal Northern Harvest: If you peel back the hype caused by Jim Murray’s pick of Northern Harvest as World Whisky of the Year 2016, you’ll find it’s still a very good spirit at an exceptional price. Unlike standard Crown Royal, Northern Harvest mash is composed of 90% rye grain and bottled at 45 ABV, which gives it a far more potent flavor than traditional Crown Royal with strong characteristics of rye spice as well as a sweet fruit character that’s like soft, sweet citrus. Did it deserve Jim Murray’s coveted award? There’s a lot of debate surrounding that decision. One thing’s for certain though – Northern Harvest is a great example of Canadian rye whisky. Lot No. 40 Single Copper Pot Still Canadian Whisky: Lot No. 40 may as well be marketed as a dessert whisky. It’s rich, sweet flavor evokes notes of melted caramel and butterscotch with some baked apple and nutmeg. It’s got a nice kick of spice to add a layer of depth and complexity, with a wonderful finish. Lot No. 40 definitely packs enough character to call for sipping neat, but it would make a great base for a spirit-forward cocktail like a Manhattan too. And while Crown Royal’s Norther Harvest rye may have won Jim Murray’s coveted World Whisky of the Year 2016, Canadian tasters picked Lot No. 40 as the best Canadian whisky for the same year. Whistlepig 10 Year Old Straight 100% Rye Whiskey: Despite largely being distributed in the United States and distilled by David Pickerell (former Master Distiller at Maker’s Mark for 14 years), Whistlepig is undeniably a Canadian whisky. It’s made in Alberta with 100% Canadian rye, but unlike a lot of its peers it is marketed as a premium spirit. Its high price is well deserved – Whistlepig is universally acclaimed for its intense, unique flavor. Whistlepig is a great example of a Canadian rye challenging the bourbon hegemony, even at the most premium levels, and worth spending a few extra dollars on. Wrappin’ It Up Legally, Rye Whisky in Canada doesn’t even need to contain rye grain. But that isn’t stopping Canadian distillers from using it in their spirits to achieve a complexity and flavor unique to the North. Increasingly, Canadian whiskies are garnering international acclaim from critics and drinkers alike. It’s worth re-exploring, and trying straight up – these ryes are just too good to mix into your ginger ale. ...
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The Fascinating Story of How Bourbon Manufacturers Served In WWII: Turning Distilleries Into Penicillin FactoriesFebruary 22, 2017During World War II, bourbon saved the lives of countless American servicemen. Well, not because of imbibing the drink. But, instead, bourbon distilleries became the wartime producers of a modern miracle drug: penicillin. In WWI, the biggest danger faced by a soldier wasn’t an incoming bullet. In fact, it was disease. Antibiotics hadn’t yet been discovered, and more soldiers died from disease than any munitions. In the early days of WWII, such illness-fatalities were still a grave concern for the American military. Penicillin had been discovered in 1928, by Sir Alexander Fleming, but, 15 years later, the antibiotic was still in scarce supply. And here’s where the bourbon comes in. Bourbon and Penicillin – Fermentation in Common When the United States went onto a war footing in late 1941, the War Production Board looked at every industry, trying to see how existing manufacturing could be converted to help the war effort. Analysts realized that distilleries could be converted into large-scale penicillin manufacturers. The alcohol producers used molds for growing yeast, and their process was similar to the steps used by scientists for penicillin growth. With some retrofitting, scientists were able to grow the antibiotic by placing the mold and a certain sugar in the distilleries’ deep fermentation tanks. The penicillin was then separated from the mold and purified for antibiotic use. Patriotism Came First Penicillin wasn’t the only product that distilleries produced for the war. They also made fuel alcohol and industrial alcohol. It had only been eight years since the end of Prohibition in 1933, and bourbon manufacturers were still rebuilding their industry. But the good of the nation came before commerce. Lewis S. Rosenstiel, president of Schenley Distillers Corp. shared the views of many when he announced: “Until final victory is achieved, the program of Schenley Distillers Corp. is this: Those activities and operations which contribute directly to winning the war will continue to have first call on all of the resources of this company, and first call on all of the energies of everyone connected with it.” Saving Lives We have many reasons to celebrate with a bourbon. However, next time you’re drinking, offer a toast to the men and women of the Greatest Generation saved by the war era distilleries. ...
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Chicago’s Baptiste & Bottle: A Bourbon DestinationFebruary 14, 2017 Baptiste & Bottle is fairly new on the Chicago dining scene. Situated on the 20th floor of the Chicago Conrad Hotel the bar and restaurant serves American food and cocktails with a focus on Bourbon and whiskey. When I first heard of Baptiste it was advertised as having a Bourbon cart accompanied by a “Bourbon Sommelier”. I was a bit skeptical to say the least, after all what is a Bourbon Sommelier? “Approachable, bourbon-centric restaurant, serving an elevated American menu in an environment that is reflective of bourbon’s true American roots.” I sat down at the bar on a Saturday afternoon and struck up a conversation with Jonathan, the bar manager. John held previous posts at Aviary and London House, good signs so far. I asked John what makes Baptiste & Bottle special in this ever-growing Bourbon world we live in. Before he got into the details he poured me an amuse-cocktail in a tiny glass. Served warm it contained Maker’s Mark, Seedling Farm’s apple cider, allspice, and bitters. John told me the welcome cocktail, given to all guests (I wasn’t getting the special treatment) gives the bartenders the opportunity to experiment. In the next hour or so I got a rundown of what makes Baptiste stand out as a Bourbon destination. They have a “Bourbon Baron Program” Bourbon lockers A Bourbon cart A huge barrel stave wall Specialty Bourbon flights, cocktails, and a staff passionate about our favorite brown spirit Did I catch your eye with any of those? Ok, these are each very cool features of Baptiste & Bottle that deserve a little more detail than a headline. The Bourbon Baron Program is their own take on a loyalty club. Trying different whiskies at the bar will net you an entry in their awesome leather-bound Bourbon book along with various perks. Including free bottles, private party invites, and early access to their new Bourbon selections. The Bourbon lockers are exactly how they sound, private little Bourbon cages to show off your taste and impress your friends. Buy a bottle from the bar and stash it in your locker to enjoy when you stop in. The Bourbon cart is stocked with various brown spirits and all the ingredients to craft 2 of their specialty cocktails, ‘The Huntsman’ and ‘A Curtsy And A Bow’, pictures below. These are an experience to watch being made and to enjoy. While they can be made at the bar, table side from the Bourbon cart is really the way to go. The barrel stave wall and various used Bourbon barrels on display make for a warm and welcoming atmosphere for the Bourbon fan. And they emphasize Baptiste’s dedication to ther chosen spirit. Admittedly, Bourbon and whiskey selection at launch was fairly limited. Due to limited allocations of popular Bourbons, being a new bar, and probably other politics of distribution. Though they do present a choice of about 20 excellent Bourbons at reasonable price points. If you’re seeking an allocation Bourbon, such as Pappy, or a vintage Bourbon from the 60’s, this isn’t your destination. And that’s not the type of place they want to be. If you’re looking for an experience, unique cocktails, a great menu, and knowledgeable staff, Baptiste is worth a visit. I stopped in once more a few days later to sit down with Beverage Manager, Michael Fawthrop. Mike honed his skills at Canon Seattle, home to over 3,500 whiskies, working with world-renowned bartender Jamie Boudreau. Mike shared with me his vision for 2017 at Baptiste & Bottle. He will continue to build and expand a strong Bourbon collection; he also mentioned adding more Japanese whisky. While staying true to their goals of being approachable, casual, and differentiating themselves from other hotel bars. You won’t find white glove service or super high-end cocktails. They do have Macallan 25 to satisfy that segment but they don’t plan to stock a lot of high-end spirits. This sentiment goes back to the cocktail focus we mentioned earlier. Baptiste is a place to drink Bourbon in an atmosphere unlike your neighborhood bar and unlike a fancy pants overpriced hotel restaurant. Mike and John have started with a unique concept that I think has hit the mark. It will be exciting to see how they build on this in 2017. ...
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Evan Williams Custom Bourbon Tasting: New MakeFebruary 6, 2017The annual Kentucky Bourbon Affair provides the opportunity for distilleries to offer truly unique, behind-the-scenes experiences to bourbon aficionados. Last year, one of these events hosted by Heaven Hill allowed attendees to create a custom bourbon. Dubbed the “Build-a-Barrel” event, guests were given the dream job of deciding on key factors that influence the final outcome of bourbon. Heaven Hill would then distill a barrel to those specifications using their mini distillery at the Evan Williams Bourbon Experience (EWBE) in downtown Louisville. Last fall, the new make was ready to taste and the folks at Heaven Hill provided the opportunity for me sample it. To read Chicago Bourbon’s recap of the Kentucky Bourbon Affair, click here. With great power comes great responsibility. There are many levers to pull when crafting bourbon, and deciding how to combine them all can be a bit daunting. Selecting the mash bill, the number of distillations, the barrel entry proof, the type of wood used to make the barrel, the rickhouse, and the floor within the rickhouse was up to us. There were 3 sections of rickhouse, 4 rickhouses, 5 barrel options, 3 char levels, 4 entry proof options, and the option to either double or triple distill. As my fellow math geeks out there have already computed, that’s 1,440 different combinations before you even bring into consideration the infinite number of mash bills! Throughout the day we had breakout sessions that dove deep into grains, distilling, and aging. We learned the “rule of the distiller” that describes how different aspects of distillation can cause variation. Changing only the yeast strain can alter about 10% of the final flavor. Distillation, including the type of still, accounts for about 15%. The mash bill represents about 25% and maturation around 15%. Since we had no control over the yeast or the still, the mash bill is of course what had the strongest effect on the flavor of the new make I tasted. During that breakout session on grains we experienced barley, corn, wheat, and rye in both whole and ground forms. We had the chance to pick up the grains and let them flow through our fingers. We tasted them in their raw form and baked into corn, wheat, and rye breads. Due to the nature of bourbon, it should come as no surprise that we spent a disproportionate amount of time focused on corn. #2 Yellow dent corn is the industry standard for bourbon. White corn has about twice the amount of starch and thus produces much higher yields, but it is much more expensive and thus rarely used in distilling. During the breakout on grains we also tasted four different new makes side by side: a wheat whiskey, a wheated bourbon, a high rye bourbon, and a rye whiskey. I know what you’re thinking. You could probably guess without having a drop of liquor pass your lips that the wheat whiskey was sweet and the rye was spicy. That wasn’t really the point of this exercise. This experience allowed the group to trace the flavors present in each grain source to the finished product and to calibrate our palates so that we were speaking the same language. As with any tasting, discussing what we tasted and smelled among our individual tables only opened our taste buds and allowed us to better pinpoint flavors. Unsurprisingly, deciding on the exact mash bill was tough. Heaven Hill’s typical mashbill is 78% corn, 10% rye, and 12% barley which we used as a general reference. Although we were all in agreement that we wanted to create a bourbon not too far outside of a classic profile, there were still some areas of disagreement. A large fraction of the group wanted to experiment with using white corn rather than standard yellow dent. I personally wanted to experiment instead with the barrel, so I was hoping not to do anything too crazy with the mash. After much debate, we landed on a recipe that was only a little outside the norm. We opted for a somewhat high rye content, but tempered the spice with a little extra barley. Although barley’s official purpose is to convert starch to sugar during the fermenting process, we learned during the breakout session that it has a pleasant flavor on its own. We hoped that its mild sweetness would complement and enrich the spicy rye (and not cancel out its flavor as wheat is known to do). Our final vote determined a recipe of 65% corn, 20% rye, and 15% barley. So, what was the result? When I arrived at EWBE I met with Kyle Fertig, who graciously escorted us to the board room of the building. There on the table were two bottles. One was our new make, and one was the standard new make produced at their Bernheim distillery. As I looked at the poured samples, my heart was beating fast. Frankly, I had low expectations. I thought back to the breakout sessions when beloved Brand Ambassador Bernie Lubbers waxed poetic about naïve distilling innovation. “We’re gonna do this because no one has ever done it!” he parodied. “Well, you should call Craig [Beam] because he has done it and it turned out shitty.” How could a room full of enthusiasts with no distilling experience possibly craft something delicious? I held the glass of our distillate to my nose and took a breath. The nose was encouraging! I took a sip and was completely shocked: it was exactly the profile we had intended! The bold spicy rye was tempered with some sweetness presumably from the relatively high barley content. It has a slow-growing heat that covered the entire palate. For a baseline comparison, we also tasted their standard recipe. The Bernheim distillate had much more savory notes. It was smooth up front with a spiciness hitting the back of the palate. Once relief washed over me, I was able to fully enjoy my surroundings. The room is gorgeous, overlooking Main Street (and partially hidden behind the giant upturned bottle that adorns the exterior of the building). I wish my work meetings were flanked by shelves of bourbon! The samples were served on an elegant tray ornamented in a Japanese style with a custom Heaven Hill landscape scene. The EWBE crew had even saved the barrel shaped whiteboard we had used to officially notate all the decisions that went into our custom barrel. Kyle made time to chat a bit about his experiences and how much they were looking forward to the 2017 Kentucky Bourbon Affair. After the main event, the next stop was the EWBE gift shop for an added treat. Kyle opened a nondescript cabinet to reveal a secret stash of bourbon! (once again, I wish this was a feature of my office) He first poured a special taste of the Evan Williams 12 year red label. It still had the signature spice found in Evan Williams, but with a much more complex and mature palate. We asked Kyle about some of his favorite products and those that are less well-known. He highlighted the Henry McKenna Bottled in Bond, which I agreed was a great option for both neat pours and for use in cocktails. This is especially true for the price point, which we’ve seen around $30-35. Needless to say, crafting a custom barrel of bourbon through Heaven Hill was a very special experience. Thank you to Heaven Hill for not only developing this event, but also opening their doors to us for years to come and providing tastings and updates. I am encouraged at the results so far, and can’t wait for future tastings after the barrel and rickhouse have imparted their flavors. ...
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Bourbon In The Movies: Six Unforgettable ScenesJanuary 23, 2017For decades, filmmakers have used a choice of drink to reveal their characters. And bourbon, in particular, is the favorite of heroes and fearless tough guys. Here are some of bourbon’s best-known star turns: North by Northwest (1959) In this classic Alfred Hitchcock thriller, Roger Thornhill (played by the legendary Cary Grant) is kidnapped. During his capture, thugs force Thornhill to swallow a tumbler full of bourbon. Later, the drunken Thornhill calls his mother, trying to explain what has happened. He insists that he hasn’t been drinking, but that “these two men, they poured a whole bottle of bourbon into me. No, they didn’t give me a chaser.” That being the real indignity, of course. John Wick (2014) Following a brutal fight, retired assassin John Wick–played by Keanu Reeves–staggers back to the Continental Hotel. The hotel manager suggests bourbon as a salve for Wick’s wounded spirit, and Wick agrees: it would be “perfect.” And so while the Continental’s doctor stitches his many wounds, Wick nurses a bottle of Blanton’s. The Hustler (1961) In this legendary film, a long-awaited pool game between Minnesota Fats (played by Jackie Gleason) and “Fast Eddie” Felson (Paul Newman) is just about to begin. Each man reveals his mindset with a last-minute drink order: Fats: Preach! Go down and get me some White Tavern whisky, a glass, and some ice. Eddie: Preacher! Go on down and get me some bourbon. J. T. S. Brown. No ice, no glass. The Shining (1980) In The Shining, Jack Nicholson’s character Jack Torrance twice orders a bourbon on the rocks from Lloyd, the hotel bartender. (Although close movie watchers will notice that Lloyd mistakenly serves him a Jack Daniels, both times.) In one of these scenes, another waiter crashes into Jack with a tray of Advocaat, contaminating Jack’s drink. Shining fans have since invited a “Jack Torrance cocktail,” consisting of both bourbon and Advocaat. Bullet to the Head (2012) Bourbon’s apparently the drink of choice for assassins. When it’s Sylvester Stallone to play a hit man, he, too, shows himself as a bourbon connoisseur. He repeatedly orders Bulliet (pronounced “bullet”) in the film. If the bar doesn’t carry the specialty brand, it’s fine: he brings his own bottle and will pay $20 to rent a glass. GoldenEye (1995) When Pierce Brosnan’s James Bond first meets with the new “M,” played by Dame Judi Dench, M sets the tone by offering him a bourbon. Her predecessor drank cognac. Just this switch in drink is enough for Bond to realize there’s a new, stronger spirit in charge. Though famous for drinking martinis, Bond himself is actually a bourbon man, regularly ordering it in both the novels and films. In Diamonds are Forever, Sean Connery’s Bond drinks bourbon with branch water. Live and Let Die saw Roger Moore as Bond consuming copious amounts of Old Grand-dad. And not coincidentally, it was author Ian Fleming’s favorite drink. ...
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You’ve Had A Store Pick, But Have You Tasted A Distributor’s Pick?January 10, 2017We’ve covered a lot of Bourbon producers, large and small. This week we met with a local Chicago distributor who’s just brought their own Bourbon label to market. Behind the new label is Brian Ciske, owner of BC Merchants in Ukrainian Village. From their website, “BC Merchants is a distributor of high-end spirits with a comprehensive portfolio of quality, boutique and niche brands.” In the Chicago market they bring us popular Bourbons such as Willett, Barrel Bourbon, Corsair, and many other spirits and wine. Brian and his team have been in business since 1999 and have tasted a LOT of whiskey. He has made yearly trips to Scotland for the past 14 years picking barrels of Scotch and bringing them back to the states under his own labels. Just after we met with Brian he was heading down to Kentucky with his wife Tania to work on a recipe at MB Roland Distillery. On this particular evening we met with both Brian and Aber Saleh, who assists BC Merchants with branding and marketing efforts, at their office and tasting room. “Quality bourbon, transparent with all the relevant information and bottled with enthusiasm, is our formula to being Resilient in the ever-changing times.” – Brian Ciske Over the years Brian and his team have picked barrels from well-known Scotch producers, ie. Laphroaig, and Bourbon producers such as MGP of Indiana and others. Their latest Bourbon release comes under the label ‘Resilient Straight Bourbon Whiskey’. It’s currently all single barrel bottlings at 107 proof, aged 10 years, and comes from MGP stock. Brian tells us,“We are bottling up quality barrels and sharing them with those who enjoy drinking bourbon.” The mash bill is 75% corn, 21% rye, and 4% barley. He says barrels of this age are becoming more scarce in today’s Bourbon market. He’s also sourced barrels from other 3rd party producers and holders of aged barrels. Looking to the future, Brian is laying down barrels of new make, unaged, whiskey which he’ll taste over the years and bring to market when they feel it’s ready. He only uses 53 gallon barrels, which is printed on each bottle. This is important to Brian as he feels this barrel size produces an additional dimension and complexity to the whiskey. As a distributor Brian sees a lot of whiskey come across his desk. He visits many distilleries worldwide and tastes a lot of whiskey. Brian and his team are in a unique position to hand-pick the very best barrels they find. Brian hand picks the single barrels that make up each release of Resilient Bourbon. He describes his palate as ‘broad enough to find something for every taste’. He works with several other whiskey veterans through the tasting process to compare notes and to offer a variety of taste profiles. Because each bottle of Resilient Bourbon comes from a single barrel, every bottle bears a paper label indicating the barrel and bottle number. “It’s important to us to detail all the relevant information right there on the label. 53 gallon newly charred oak barrels, barrel #, bottle #, proof, distillery, distilled on and bottled on dates. On the next label, we are adding the char level and mash bill. It’s all the info we want as bourbon enthusiasts and believe you do too.”, said Brian. A lot of distilleries produce ‘single barrel’ Bourbons. And quite a few retailers, bars, and restaurants, pick their own ‘private selection’ single barrels. But unlike those, every one of Resilient’s releases so far is a private selection. And each one has it’s own unique nose and taste profile. We sampled four of the current releases and have included detailed tasting notes below. With his nearly two decades of industry experience, refining his palate and making industry connections, Brian is sharing his experience with others through Resilient Bourbon. Currently less than 175 bottles of each barrel of Resilient Bourbon are on the market. You can find them at Chicago area Binny’s including Lincoln Park, Lakeview, South Loop, and Highland Park. As well as a few other area liquor stores. But only while they last , then you’ll have to wait for the next release. Every one of the Bourbons we tasted is no slouch. They have a mature nose with spice and heat representative of their 107 proof. They’re complex and each bring something different to the glass. Barrel # 10 Nose – Dark Caramel Slightly astringent Earthy Walnuts Palate – Lots of heat on this one Oaky Caramel Finish – Spicy pepper Hot Long Full Barrel # 4 (This one strikes me as being great in a Manhattan) Nose – Ripe fruit Cherry Caramelized sugar Hint of smokiness Palate – Nutty Rich dark fruit Finish – Long Barrel # 8 Nose – Corn Pencil shavings Burnt tobacco Pepper Palate – Slight licorice Sweet corn Viscous Pepper Finish – Warm Long Barrel # 9 (Great easy sipper, smooth and sweet) Nose – Light caramel Vanilla Floral Sweet and muted Palate – Sweet Caramel Honey Finish – Light Medium If you pickup a bottle of Resilient Bourbon leave a comment below with your thoughts! Reach out to us or BC Merchants if you’d like to know where to find future releases. ...
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We Worked In A Distillery To Make Your BourbonDecember 28, 2016Last July we gave you a peek inside Whiskey Acres Distilling Co located in DeKalb, IL. It was one of our most popular articles of 2016. When the distillery invited us back to spend the day hands-on distilling and bottling we jumped at the chance. Last time, we hung out with owner Jim Walter. On this visit we got a chance to spend time with the other two distillery owners, Nick Nagele and Jamie Walter. Along with their assistant distiller Rob Wallace. Check out our original article and tour of the farm distillery, click here. My wife and I arrived at the distillery on a Tuesday morning at about 8:30. Nick and Rob had already warmed up the steam boiler and we were ready to roll. The boiler is the heat source for the mash cooker where we would soon be adding our grains. The boiler is powered by a natural gas line running under the farm. This feature may seem trivial but it is critical to their commitment to sustainability. On this morning it didn’t take long to heat because the hot water from the previous day’s cook was circulated back to the boiler. This process allows them to start the next day with water that is already warm. A key to optimizing the work day, especially in the coming winter months. Once the boiler was up to temp, naturally filtered limestone water was added to the mash cooker. One of the keys to great Kentucky Bourbon is the naturally filtered limestone water native to the area. Whiskey Acres happens to sit on top of an aquifer that produces their very own limestone filtered water. Now it’s time to mill, or grind, the grain before adding to the mash cooker. The milling happens in a barn just nextdoor. Nick tells us they do this for a few reasons. Milling in a different building ensures that no dust or debris from the mill floats into the distillery. And having the mill so close allows them to mill grain right before they use it. Nick showed us a jar of dull gray looking corn milled last week. Then led us over to the mill where he grabbed a handful of bright, fragrant corn coming off the running mill. The difference is very noticeable and we have to believe it makes a difference in the final product as well. Whiskey Acres is a farm distillery which means they grow, harvest, and mill most of the grain used on the distillery. All of the corn, rye, and wheat is grown by the family just beyond the distillery walls. The only grain not currently grown there is the barley. They use such a small amount of barley it wouldn’t make much sense to grow and malt it themselves. Nick says maybe one day, but for now it’s sourced from a nearby producer. On this particular day we made a bourbon mash of part yellow dent corn and part blue popcorn. The blue popcorn is actually blue in color and makes for an impressive sight as it blends with the yellow corn pouring into the cooker. This is done by hoisting the grain over the cooker with a forklift. While parts of Whiskey Acres are automated, much of the work done here is done by hand and closely monitored. Now that the corn has been added to the cooker it will be brought to a boil and held there for 30 minutes. The mash will then be cooled and different grains will be added at different temperatures. Ultimately it will be cooled to 90 degrees in preparation of transfer to the fermentation tank. The mashbill for Whiskey Acres Bourbon is 75% corn, 15% wheat, and 10% malted barley. When the cook is complete the mash, aka. “wort”, is a sugar rich solution ready to be converted to alcohol! The wort is pumped to the fermentation tank where it is held at 90 degrees. This is when distillers making a “Sour Mash” Bourbon would add some of the backset from the previous cook. But because Whiskey Acres uses a Sweet Mash process we’ll use only fresh ingredients at this step. We now add minerals to balance the pH of the wort. This is also the time to add one of the 5 yeast strains they’ve chosen. Yeast is a critical ingredient to making all alcohol. Yeast cells eat the sugar in our mash and poop out alcohol. After the yeast has its way for 3 to 5 days the mash is now known as “wash” or “distillers beer”. It contains about 10% alcohol at this point. Sour Mash vs. Sweet Mash: Sour Mash: Adding a small amount of mash from a previous cook to each new cook. This helps balance the pH of the new cook and is believed to provide consistency of flavor. Sweet Mash: No previous mash is used, only new ingredients. Other methods retain a consistent pH. With current sanitary methods some distillers believe this process yields a more consistent flavor. For today’s run Rob and Nick had a fully fermented wash ready to go. We pumped the wash into their custom Vendome Copper & Brass Works hybrid still and began to heat it with steam. In my opinion this part is the most fun and requires the most skill and experience. This is when we begin to distill the wash to produce the high proof “new make” or “white dog”. As the still began to boil Rob opened the plates in the column part of the still and the whiskey began to flow. Alcohol vapor made its way to the top of the still where it moved to the condenser to be converted back to a liquid. From here it moves to the “spirit safe” where it slowly percolates and is gathered. The heavy copper lid lifts off, Nick and Rob dip a finger in and taste the whiskey then I do the same. The smell and taste is predominantly….nail polish. These are the “Heads” and do not yet contain the ethanol we’re looking for. I notice small green flecks bubbling up in the heads and ask Nick what I’m seeing. He chuckles and says that’s the still sacrificing a bit of itself in each run. The copper in the still is breaking down and tiny pieces make their way into the heads. As we monitor the spirit safe the pace of the whiskey coming through picks up, the green flecks disappear, and the taste becomes sweet. The heads portion of the run completes in under 5 minutes. Now we have the “Hearts” and this is when Rob makes the first “cut”. He pulls a lever to direct the Hearts to a new tank, away from the heads. There are thermometers and hydrometers providing measurements along the way but Nick tells me those are just guides. Their senses of smell and taste are what truly signal the time to make cuts. Learning this skill takes time and experience. In our last Whiskey Acres article we talked about the guys bringing in Dave Pickerell to help them get setup. Nick and the guys learned from Dave’s decades of distilling experience. Foreshots: The very first distillate off the still, this contains volatile chemicals including acetone. It is discarded. Heads: Next comes acetone, methanol, ethyl-acette and ethanol. Slightly sweet but still a strong ‘nail polish’ smell. Hearts: The good stuff. Mostly ethanol. Sweet on the nose and palate. This makes up most of the run. Tails: Contains fusel oils which may be desirable in smaller quantities in the final product. The hearts run lasts 4-5 hours before the taste begins to lose its sweetness and turns into “Tails”. We will continue to dip a finger in and taste the whiskey every 10 to 15 minutes to know when to make the final cut. But that leaves some free time in between. We take a break for lunch, Nick orders us delicious Bánh mì sandwiches and we talk shop. (The delivery guy actually bought a bottle of Bourbon from the tasting room on his way out. Supporting local business right here!) Because they do things mostly by hand, and sense, there is a lot of movement in the distillery. Nick wears a Fitbit and tells me he’s logged 7 miles in one day, never leaving the distillery. On that note we walk over to the still for another taste. Smooth, creamy, sweet, even sweeter than last check. Nick and Rob look pleased. I ask why they chose to bottle the Bourbon at 87 proof. Nick goes into bonding, think “bottled in bond”, taxes, proof gallons vs. wine gallons and more. (Much more detail than I’ll go into here. If you’re interested in learning more I’m happy to continue the conversation in the comments below.) A full day at Whiskey Acres yields a single barrel of craft Bourbon. A large scale distillery may fill over 1,000 barrels a day. After lunch we moved to one of the final steps in the operation, bottling. They weren’t filling any barrels that day so we skipped that step. If we had filled a barrel Nick tells us they get one barrel per distillation run. This should give you an idea of the scale of a craft distillery compared to the big boys. A full day at Whiskey Acres yields a single barrel that won’t see the inside of a bottle for a months or years. A large distillery may fill over 1,000 barrels per day! The guys did have a 500 gallon container of freshly dumped aged Bourbon ready to be bottled and we got to work. Rob had already proofed it down to bottling proof using de-ionized water. This type of water is used because it leaves in minerals and gives a better mouth feel. Nick setup and calibrated the bottling machine, something they do with each bottling run. I began unboxing bottles and Rob showed my wife how to affix the tax stamps and plastic shrink wrap that would seal each bottle. We measured, filled, corked, labeled, sealed, and boxed nearly 600 bottles. Other than the precise filling, the process is done by hand taking care to inspect each bottle along the way. Today we had a small team but usually on their monthly bottling days Whiskey Acres accepts volunteers through their Facebook Page. As we wrapped up bottling in walked a couple on schedule to taste barrels for a private barrel selection. John McIntyre and his wife were ready to pick their next Whiskey Acres Single Barrel for their Hy-Vee store in Sycamore, IL. We first heard about John McIntyre during our last visit to Whiskey Acres. We even wrote about him in our previous blog post. But back then we referred to him as the “mad whiskey scientist”. On this visit we got a chance to meet John and even sample a full barrels with him. He started with a handful and narrowed it down to just a couple. After the first single barrel he bought from Whiskey Acres did so well at his store; John told us he’s looking for another unique flavor profile. After a few more sips he had found his barrel. His name was written on the barrel head, a few photos were taken, and John will pick up his bottles, and empty barrel, just a few weeks later. We finished our day in the Whiskey Acres tasting room. My wife and I were joined by Nick, Rob, Jamie, John and his wife. I sipped on their Bourbon and Rye while I soaked in the last few minutes of my day in the shoes of a craft distiller. This was an incredible learning experience for us and will be reflected in Chicago Bourbon content as we continue to grow. I would like to thank everyone at Whiskey Acres for taking us under their wing, explaining their process in great detail, and allowing us to help them craft their uniquely exception spirits. ...
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Celebrating the 50 Year Career of Jim RutledgeDecember 19, 2016Jim Rutledge is considered a contemporary bourbon legend by many. 2016 marked his 50th year in the business. Most of those years were spent at Four Roses, where he played an integral role in bringing the brand back to U.S. shelves in 2004 after spending decades as export only. He retired from Four Roses in 2015 from his position of Master Distiller and is currently working on starting up his own venture, J. W. Rutledge Distillery. To honor his many accomplishments, the Bourbon Crusaders organized a 50th Anniversary celebration for him on November 5, 2016. The Crusaders are a group composed of whiskey tasters, writers, and enthusiasts from all over the country and this was their first public event. The program included many limited edition pours, dinner, a silent auction, door prizes, and of course hob-nobbing with bourbon royalty. Proceeds of ticket sales and silent auction purchases went toward the Crohns and Colitis Foundation of America, a cause near to Jim’s heart. Gold tickets to the event included three extra-limited edition pours to kick off the evening: a Four Roses OBSV 17 year, a Charbay Hop Flavored Whiskey Bourbon Crusader’s single barrel pick, and a LeNell’s Red Hook Rye. Let’s be honest folks, pours of these whiskeys alone were arguably worth the price of admission. The Charbay clocked in at a whopping 147 proof, but certainly drank much smoother than one might expect. The hops were apparent and not to my personal non-beer-drinking taste, but it was by far the richest beer-based whiskey I’ve ever tried. When it came time to try the Red Hook Rye Barrel 2, everyone was buzzing. LeNell Smothers operated a liquor store in Red Hook Brooklyn from 2003 – 2009. During this period, she selected 4 Bernheim-distilled barrels of Willett rye for her Red Hook Rye. Some describe this stuff as the “essence” of rye. That might sound overly poetic, but I agree that providing tasting notes here are futile; it’s one of those ultra-special whiskies that just touches you in all the right places. “It’s an OBSV…but it’s really an OBS-somethin.’ ” – Jim Rutledge The very first taste of the evening was a toast of a Four Roses 17-year OBSV. As we savored our opening drink, Jim took the opportunity to explain why this was such a special bottle. This is of course one of ten Four Roses distillate recipes and the standard recipe for regular edition single barrels, but this was from a particularly interesting batch. Jim told us a story from nearly two decades prior about operating the distillery during the holiday season. The standard procedure was to start over with fresh yeast on a weekly basis to ensure consistency. One week while fermenting with their V-Strain yeast an operator informed him that the yeast still looked quite strong and asked if it would be okay to continue forward without going through the hassle of switching the yeast. In light of the holiday season, Jim agreed. Much to his surprise, the operators had the same request the next week, claiming that the yeast was still quite big and plump. Jim looked at the yeast under the microscope himself and confirmed the yeast was indeed quite plump. There was one big problem: V yeast should be long and skinny. The yeast had clearly become contaminated! Jim was now beside himself, expecting the batch to fail quality assurance. It squeaked by, and he had no idea what he would do with this contaminated batch. As it aged, however, it became increasingly noteworthy and delicious. As it turns out, barrels from that batch have been the secret sauce in many of the award winning special releases in the past few years, such as the 125th anniversary Small Batch. “So,” Jim concluded, “it’s an OBSV, but it’s really an OBS-somethin’. Cheers!” After these early pours, the presentations became a bit less formal as people alternated between trying new pours, bidding on silent auction items, and enjoying dinner from Silver Dollar. Chris Morris, Master Distiller at Woodford Reserve was in attendance and brought this year’s Brandy Cask Finish Master’s Collection for us to sample. It’s been a while since Woodford has produced a cask finish for their annual special release, and it was a welcome return in my book. We also had the opportunity to enjoy Booker’s Rye and Booker’s 25, which have both been highly sought special releases this year. Adam Johnson from the Kentucky Distillers Association joined the celebration, as did several fellow Kentucky Bourbon Affair Attendees (to read Chicago Bourbon’s recap of the Bourbon Affair, click here). Other local bourbon stars were in attendance, such as author Fred Minnick and Matthew Landan, owner of Haymarket Whiskey Bar. This special collaboration is just another example of the tight knit camaraderie in the bourbon industry; these brands act more like teammates than competitors. Larry Kass from Heaven Hill arrived not only to share a bottle of Elijah Craig 23 year, but also to share a touching video from Parker Beam. Parker, Master Distiller Emeritus at Heaven Hill, reflected upon the professional and personal friendship he had with Jim and only wished he could have attended in person. He was thankful for Jim’s support after his own ALS diagnosis and happy to both congratulate him and support Jim’s own charitable cause. Heaven Hill donated a particularly special bottle to the silent auction: Masters Distillers’ Unity. This bourbon was a special mingling of mashbills donated from 7 different Kentucky brands: Heaven Hill, Four Roses, Makers Mark, Wild Turkey, Buffalo Trace, Woodford, and Jim Beam. It was initially auctioned in 2013 to support the Parker Beam Promise of Hope Fund, supporting ALS. It was quite a surprise to see a modestly dressed bottle of this one of a kind bourbon show up on the auction block! The winner of the auction was understandably quite pleased, although unsure exactly what would be done with this extremely rare bottle. After dinner, Fred Minnick led a conversation with Jim as he reflected upon his lengthy career and discussed his future. As he has done before, Jim dispelled the notion that his retirement from Four Roses was forced in any way. Jim’s love has always been the distilling process and enjoyed actually working in the distillery. In his mind, the title Master Distiller has evolved in some cases to indicate less of a master of one’s craft and more of a public figure. Jim became less enamored with his role as he spent less and less time operating the distillery. (This made me recall my conversation with Brent Elliott, current Four Roses Master Distiller, who remarked during the Kentucky Bourbon Affair that one of the most difficult aspects of his new role was creating a legible signature). Jim is looking forward to his new venture, J. W. Rutledge Distillery, where he plans to be involved in the day to day operations of making whiskey. Although he initially considered crowdfunding the initial investment, he eventually decided instead to turn to a small number of investors who were more familiar with the industry. Needless to say, he is looking forward to getting back in a distillery! Next, the Crusaders awarded door prizes and the night wound down over plentiful pours. The only things better than relaxing after dinner with treats like a Willett 14 year, Single Barrel Select Russel’s Reserve Rye, and Old Forrester 1920 is doing so among great company. When I returned home several friends asked about the event. At first, I struggled to explain the warm, friendly atmosphere of the event. Finally, I remarked that Kentucky bourbon folk just don’t know a stranger. The Bourbon Crusaders made their event debut with a beautifully crafted celebration. I’ll definitely be keeping an eye on their event calendar and looking forward to their next occasion. ...
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Repeal Day And An Old Fashioned Face Off!December 13, 2016To celebrate the repeal of prohibition we joined Old Forester for their Old Fashioned Face-Off bartender competition. Taking place at West Loop’s Moonlight Studios this year’s celebration was packed with Bourbon enthusiasts and some of the cities most interesting bartenders. The event was an opportunity to sample over a dozen craft cocktails from Chicago’s hippest and most creative mixologists. 5 things to know about prohibition: Prohibition ran from 1920 to 1933 under the 18th Amendment President Woodrow Wilson vetoed the act but was overruled by Congress Organized crime skyrocketed by 24%. Al Capone led the charge in Chicago Six distilleries continued to operate during prohibition selling medicinal whiskey Prohibition ended on December 5, 1933 with passage of the 21st Amendment We arrived to be greeted by a doorman dressed in a period perfect trenchcoat and fedora hat. In a hushed voice he asked for our password then hurried us in while keeping an eye out for prohibition agents. Once inside we got a menu from the friendly flapper girls and headed in to enjoy the 20’s inspired Jazz and Dance music complete with a trumpet player on the catwalk. The concept of the event was a competition among Chicago bartenders. Thirteen bartenders competed by crafting their own signature Old Forester Bourbon based cocktail. Guests floated among the “mini bars” sampling each looking for their favorite! Old Forester had their own opulent booth setup serving full-sized cocktails. There were 3 winners chosen from the 13 bartenders in the competition. In my opinion the guests were the real winners. Personally I sampled every cocktail at least once and can attest they were each unique and a spectacular use of Bourbon! First place ($1,000): Dustin Drankiewicz, Deadbolt Bar Second place ($500): Julia Momose, GreenRiver Third place (Bar tools): Graham Heubach, Sportsman’s Club Fan favorite (Trip to Louisville*): Kevin Beary, Three Dots and a Dash *A trip for two to Louisville to tour the Brown-Forman cooperage and spend time one-on-one with Jackie Zykan, Old Forester Master Bourbon Specialist. All competitors recipes are available here – http://il.oldfashionedfaceoff.com/vote Check out the image gallery below to follow along as we sampled all of the cocktails: ...
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Our Top 8 Bourbon Gift Ideas For The HolidaysDecember 5, 2016 It’s that time of year again! Time for decorations, holiday cheer, and a few more drinks and gifts! For you bourbon lovers out there take note of what to add to your wish list – and if necessary send this blog or post it to your social media to make it easier on those filling your stockings! There are many options when it comes to bourbon gifts. Extra points for the more creative ones! Below we’ve listed some of our favorites and where to get them. And don’t forget – these can work as gifts for Birthdays, Fathers’/Mothers’ Day, Graduations, or a Baby/Wedding Shower! Personalized Bar Swag From glasses to decanters to the bourbon bottle itself, everything can be engraved, carved, or laser etched. Whether you have a special announcement (I used an engraved bottle to tell my husband we were expecting), or just want initials – personalization is a great way to complete a bar setup. These make for fantastic small scale gifts – you can do just one set of coasters, or for a larger present bundle glasses, a decanter, serving tray and bottle of your favorite bourbon. Check out Hearthwood Coasters for custom laser etched wood coasters. And visit Buy Oak Barrels and Home Wet Bar for custom engraved barrels and other barware. All set when it comes to your bar? Now’s the time to accessorize! Accent your passion with a few meticulously chosen art pieces. Fine Art There are many retailers online selling some amazing bourbon related art. Everything from barrels and bottles to the distilleries themselves. These items can be appreciated by bourbon enthusiasts and art collectors alike! Is there one distillery that holds special meaning for you or the recipient? Are you more impressed by the process or the product? Focus on that and you will find the perfect gift. Check out these Etsy pages for great Bourbon art! If your walls are already complete think edibles! Bourbon can make it’s way into anything that comes out of the kitchen. Bourbon Snacks Are you creative? This is a great opportunity get in the kitchen and share your skills. Depending on your preference for sweet or savory there’s a recipe for you. I’ve seen Bourbon glazes, BBQ sauce, salad dressing, banana bourbon layer cake, and honey bourbon balls. Resurrect a bottle of bourbon that wasn’t particularly satisfying by giving it new life – Apple Pie Infused Bourbon Perhaps? If cooking isn’t your strong suit then there are plenty of ready made bourbon snacks available for purchase. Chocolate and bourbon seem to be the obviously pairing but you can also find homemade bourbon marshmallows, bourbon caramels, even bourbon jam. Check out Art Eatables for authentic bourbon-infused candies and chocolates. Thinking bigger than a stocking stuffer? Look no further than barrel furniture for your home, office, or commercial space. Barrel Furniture If you have the room and bourbon is your flavor then make way for the largest gift giving opportunity on the list. Charred oak makes an amazing presentation as a sink, a chair or a coffee table. Don’t have that much room around the house? Add a hat rack to your shopping list. No space left in the house? Don’t fret – barrels make fantastic dog houses, flower pots and even grills! Loving the look but looking for something even smaller? Focus on just the staves. If you can imagine it, someone has made it out of barrel staves – serving tray, towel racks, chalkboard signs, shelving, even a candle holder. Looking to go all out? Cover a wall in staves – that would make for one hell of a bar! Check out Bourbon inspired furniture from Wine Enthusiast and Bourbon Barrel Artisan. Don’t forget a Bourbon themed holiday card to complete the gift. Check out the work of our friend Erin Bonham at TheBoxBerry for awesome cards designed right here in Chicago. In reality when shopping for a bourbon enthusiast you can’t go wrong with a bottle of bourbon. Not sure about what they like – ask them! Find out their favorites, take a few notes and head to the liquor store to ask for help. When in doubt – get a variety and let your bourbon fan expand their palate. Stay tuned to Instagram to see what Mr. Chicago Bourbon himself receives for Christmas! We wish you a wonderful bourbon filled holiday and Happy New Year! ...
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Rye Whiskey Is Making A Comeback, But Can It Overtake Bourbon?November 15, 2016 This year I was invited to attend the 2016 ‘Rye Heritage Month’ kickoff event at Chicago’s Untitled Supper Club. Part of a 3 city tour taking place first in Chicago, then Boston and New York City. Rye Heritage Month is an idea started in 2015 with the goals of raising awareness around the history of Rye Whiskey and petitioning the United States Congress to officially recognize November as Rye Heritage Month. What is Rye Whiskey? In the United States, “Rye Whiskey” is, by law, made from a mash of at least 51 percent rye grain. It shares a few other legal requirements with Bourbon; such as being distilled to no more than 160 proof, barreled at 125 proof or less, and aged in new charred oak containers. Unlike Bourbon, Rye does not have to be made in the United States. Currently 6 Rye producers are identified as supporters of this movement. Though I suspect many other Rye brands would welcome such an initiative. Supporters include: WhistlePig, George Dickel, Bulleit, Redemption, Crown Royal, and Hudson Whiskey. Chicago event participants included WhistlePig, Redemption, and Hudson. Their argument is that Rye Whiskey is the true native spirit of these United States. Distilled as early as the 1600’s and later produced by President George Washington on his famous Mount Vernon Estate. Rye has a deep connection to American history and possesses a strong story in support of its recognition. To answer our initial question. I don’t think Rye has to “unseat” Bourbon as America’s Native Spirit. If there’s one thing we’ve learned from the recent Bourbon boom it’s that there’s plenty of room on the shelf for whiskeys of all kinds. But, a fight against the incumbent makes for a good story! Check out our photos below What does Rye have going for it? Some believe it doesn’t have to age as long as Bourbon or Scotch to be considered good. This is disputed and like Bourbon you will see very young bottles of Rye on the shelf along with 15+ year old Rye. Rye has more heat and spice than its corn based Bourbon cousin. Rye grain is generally more expensive and harder to work with than corn. Therefor more prestigious? Rye has maintained some of its pre-prohibition popularity in Canada. Surprisingly Whiskey sold in Canada can be labeled “Rye Whiskey” when only containing a small amount of Rye or, get this, no Rye at all! Thankfully here in America our Standards of Identity regulations are a bit stricter and do require at least 51% Rye grain when distilling and selling Rye Whiskey in the US. Like Bourbon, prohibition put a large damper on Rye production nearly killing it off. While Bourbon has enjoyed its renaissance for some time now, Rye’s popularity in the US market is now coming into its own. Untitled got things going with a welcome cocktail menu featuring the Manhattan, Sazerac, Rye Buck, and a delicious iced coffee cocktail. Tasting tables were set up by WhistlePig, Hudson, and Redemption. Behind the WhistlePig table was our buddy and Chicago resident Taylor Hansen, WhistlePig Midwest rep. On deck from Redemption was Mark Lowen, Spirits Regional Manager. And representing Hudson Whiskey was founder Ralph Erenzo. WhistlePig sampled their 10, 12, and 15 year Rye. I may have snuck a taste of the new 2016 Boss Hog: The Independent which comes out late November. And it may have been bold and spicy with a great warm finish all rolled into one. Keep an eye out for this very limited release Whiskey! Hudson was sampling their ‘Manhattan Rye Whiskey’. One of the many spirits they have distilled in New York since 2003. These guys were making Rye before Rye was cool. We sat down with founder and distiller Ralph Erenzo later in the evening. Mark Lowen poured samples of Redemption Rye, aged at least 2.5 years, from their brand new bottle design. He also had a bottle of the 8-year-old barrel proof Rye that I enjoyed sipping on while catching up with Mark. Check out our Redemption dinner at The VIG, click here Around 8:00 everyone gathered in the main dining room for the discussion panel, the highlight of the night. Led by Lew Bryson, full-time beer and spirits writer. Sitting on the panel were Rye experts: Dave Pickerell of WhistlePig, Hillrock Estate and formerly Makers Mark. Ralph Erenzo of Tuthilltown Spirits/Hudson Whiskey. And Eric Rosentreter of Redemption Rye. The guys talked about the history of Rye, its growing popularity, and their struggles working with the grain. Dave talked about his personal experience discovering Rye via George Washington’s historic distillery. How Revolutionary War soldiers received Rye whiskey rations during combat. And he dove into the two main types of Rye Whiskey. Monongahela (Pennsylvania) Style – Rye without corn. (High Rye content – Savory) Maryland Style – Rye with corn (Lower Rye content – Sweet) “The American palate is moving from sweet to savory. It’s my belief that this is the time to bring Rye Whiskey back.” – Dave P. Everything that happened with American Rye Whiskey happened by accident. Fermentation took place before people knew what fermentation was. Whiskey being shipped across country was put into oak barrels purely for oak’s properties as a non-porous wood. It wasn’t until around the 1830’s that charred barrels came into play for adding flavor to whiskey. Dave told one of the plausible stories of the invention of barrel aged American Whiskey. Reverend Elijah Craig was a distiller in need of a new barrel to store his Whiskey. The local cooper didn’t have any new barrels on hand, only old barrels used to store fish. You can imagine how undesirable fish flavored Whiskey would be. Out of necessity, they burned the inside of the barrel to eliminate the fish residue. After aging in this barrel Elijah liked the Whiskey….a lot. Now this is just one of several disputed stories around the invention of aged Whiskey. But this is the one Dave shared with us and it holds about as much weight as any of the others. Eric went on to share another possibility centered around Whiskey traveling down the Mississippi River for long periods of time and coming out the other end “aged” to a more desirable flavor. Unfortunately there just isn’t enough documented history to prove either story and you can believe whichever sounds best to you! After the panel I sat down with Ralph Erenzo. Ralph and I were joined by a few other attendees and learned a little more about the history of Hudson Whiskey. In Ralph’s opinion, when it comes to Whiskey the environment, terroir, comes into play more from the water than the grain. But where it’s aged also plays a large role. The climate, the style of rickhouse, the intensity of summer and winter. High rickhouses in the intense heat of Kentucky will produce a different flavor than Whiskey aged in other regions of the country and world. “I thought if I could figure out a way to agitate the Whiskey without moving the barrels, because I was the one who would have to move all those barrels!” – Ralph E. At Hudson Whiskey the barrels stand upright on stacked pallets. This is not typical of the traditional Kentucky rickhouses where barrels lay on their sides. Ralph uses his vertical method for logistical reasons, moving the barrels is easier on pallets. That’s not the only thing Ralph has experimented with. He’s tried wrapping barrels in plastic to reduce the angels share. Though he found that the angels share contributes to the end flavor and this method was abandoned. They have tried playing loud bass heavy music to agitate the Whiskey in the barrel. They even built a large barrel storage container with heating and cooling elements to simulate season changes. All of these experiments done years ago led Ralph to a singular conclusion. One we’ve heard before. There is no substitute for time and wood. Today, Ralph no longer uses those experimental techniques. One method he does use is aging his Whiskey in different size barrels then blending to reach his desired flavor profile. For example, he says that smaller barrels express more vanilla notes faster. A characteristic he blends into longer aged Whiskey from larger barrels. “Where you separate craft from the art is in the blending process.” – Ralph E. Ralph and his team are now focusing on developing Hudson’s Distillery as a destination. They are hosting weddings and special events. Ralph installed an 1867 brandy still and built a building around it to accommodate 50 person gatherings around this beautiful still. They are also working on cordials for bartenders to use in cocktails. Blueberry, coffee, and ginger to name a few. And keep an eye on Hudson and their parent company, Tuthilltown Spirits, for more exciting Whiskeys in 2017. Is the ‘Rye Heritage Month’ movement happening in part due to Rye’s recent resurgence in popularity? Perhaps. Is it a decent reason to enjoy a pour of your favorite Rye? Definitely. Rye Whiskey enjoys a prominent place in America’s distilling history and in the history of our country. Had prohibition not thrown a wrench into the works who knows where the American Rye and Bourbon industries would be today. At Chicago Bourbon I’m a fan of most spirits, especially the brown ones aged in charred oak barrels. We’re fully supporting Rye Heritage Month and hope you will too! ...
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